OceanofPDF.com Why You Should Never Give Your Dog a Bone - Ben Settle

Why You Should Never Give Your Dog a Bone
and Other Secrets of the World’s Healthiest,
Happiest, and Most Well-Behaved Dogs
By Ben Settle
©2016
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Table of Contents
1 Why Some Dogs Snap, Bite, and Act Aggressively... And How You Can
Immediately Teach Them Not to Do It Anymore
2 How to Get 100% Free Dog Training Lessons!
3 Common Plants In Your Backyard and Living Room That Can Seriously
Injure... Even Kill... Your Dog
4 How to Use Music to Calm Your Dog Down... No Matter How StrungOut, Hyper or Scared He Is
5 Why You Should Never Give Your Dog A Bone
6 Five Foods Which Are Fine And Dandy For Humans... But Deadly
Poison to Dogs
7 How to Quickly and Easily Teach Your Dog to Eliminate Outside...
Instead of on Your Carpet or Floor
8 Two Minerals All Dogs Need... And Where to Find Them
9 A Common Ingredient in Most Dog Foods That Can Make Him Sick and
Die Earlier Than He Should
10 Which So-Called “Safe” Dog Toys Can Severely Injure Your Dog
11 Why Your Dog Could Be in Blinding Pain... Without You Knowing It
12 Exactly How Many Times Per Day You Should Feed Your Dog For
Maximum Health
13 The Only 3 Reasons You Should Ever Change Your Dog’s Diet
14 Why “Genius Dogs” are Harder to Train Than Less Intelligent Dogs
15 How to Know How Your Dog Is Feeling Simply by Looking at Her Eyes
16 How to Tell If There’s a Tick In Your Dog’s Fur Even If You Can’t See
It
17 A Fool Proof Way Of Knowing If Your Dog Is Really Too Skinny... Or
If He’s Too Fat
18 How to Test Your Dog’s Hearing
19 The Best Time of the Day to Check For Fleas, Ticks or Hidden Injuries
20 What to Do if Your Dog Gets Injured and Nobody’s Around to Help
21 How to Almost Guarantee Your Dog Sits Still When You Groom Her
22 Quick and Easy Ways to Brush Your Dog’s Teeth
23 How to “Erase” Your Dog’s Tear Marks
24 How to Determine How Healthy Your Dog Is... By Looking at His Nose
25 The Little-Talked About Health Hazards of Using “Retractable Leashes”
26 The Most Dangerous Time of the Year For Dogs
27 The Hidden Health Dangers of Using “Choke” Chain Collars
28 Two Common Places You Must Never Let Your Dog Touch, Sniff, or
Lick
29 How to Teach Your Dog How to Read?
30 Why Chaining Your Dog Up Makes Him More Dangerous to Your
Friends, Family And Strangers... Than If He’s Running Loose
31 Why Bribing Your Dog Will Make Your Life a Living Hell
32 How to Pay Little or Nothing For Your Dog’s Vet Bills and Medications
33 How to “Hire” Your Dog and Grow Your Business Ten Fold
34 How to Quickly and Easily Train Your Dog to Not Be Afraid of
Fireworks, Thunder, and Other Loud Noises
35 How to Protect Your Dog From “Dog-Nappers”
36 A “Secret” Place to Take A Good, Healthy Dog You Can’t Keep...
Besides An Animal Shelter or the Pound
37 What to Do If Your Dog Is Sick From Being in the Heat Too Long
38 How to “Snuff Out” Dog Allergies... Without Drugs, Steroids, or Other
Potentially Harmful Chemicals
39 Why Your Kitchen Sink Is the Biggest Health Hazard Your Dog Faces
40 How to Stop A Life-Threatening Disease In Your Dog Before It Surfaces
41 How to Get Your Dog to Enjoy Going to the Vet
42 How to Eliminate Fleas With an Inexpensive (Non-Toxic) Ingredient
Found at Your Local Grocery Store
43 A Common Mistake New Dog Owners Make That Almost Guarantees
Their Dogs Never Learn to Listen or Obey
44 How to Use an Ordinary Pencil to Train Your Dog New Commands in a
Fraction Of the Time it Normally Takes
45 Why Most People Sabotage Their Dog’s Learning Progress and Never
Even Realize It
46 Why Yelling at Your Dog When He Does Something Bad Is a Big Fat
Waste Of Time
47 Why Some Dogs Stubbornly “Do Their Business” In the House – Even
When Housebroken
48 How to Prevent Your Dog From Being Lonely, Scared, Or Nervous
When Locked in His Crate For Hours at a Time
49 How to Trim Your Dog’s Nails Without Hassle, Squirming, or Pain
50 How to Prevent Kidney Disease From Killing Your Dog
Acknowledgments
Chapter 1
Why Some Dogs Snap, Bite And Act
Aggressively... And How You Can Immediately
Teach Them Not To Do It Anymore
If your dog snaps, bites and acts aggressive, you may be tempted to think
you have a “bad” dog.
And while it’s true there really are vicious dogs out there, yours may not
necessarily be one just because they misbehave.
In fact, I’d bet you dollars to donuts your dog is far from being a bad dog.
How can I be so sure?
Well, let’s put it this way.
I have a buddy who owns several dogs. He’s been a dog lover his whole
life. There’s nothing else in the world this guy likes to talk about more than
dogs.
And yet, for some reason, he had a dog (a breed not known for being
aggressive) that was behaving aggressively.
His dog was always biting, snapping and getting testy with him. Usually at
weird times... and always for no reason at all.
Plus, to make matters worse, this dog was extremely stubborn. So stubborn
it was a miracle on the level of fishes and loaves of bread if this dog ever
did anything it was told.
However, this didn’t bother my friend at all.
Like I said, he knows a thing or two about dogs. And even though he had
more than a few people suggest he get rid of the dog (or worse), my friend
refused.
In fact, he not only kept the dog, but that dog is now, just a few years later,
the best trained and most obedient dog he’s ever had.
What did he do?
Nothing special really.
Again, he just knows dogs.
And in this case he knew his over-aggressive, stubborn and “snappy” dog –
while smart and extremely intelligent – had what’s called a “dominant”
personality.
What does that mean?
Well, in a pack of wild dogs, one dog will always rise up as the “dominant”
animal and crown himself “leader of the pack.”
And the other dogs in the pack will submit to that leader.
The leader demands it.
If someone in the pack gets “out of line,” the leader will attack the
troublemaker and either make him submit... or kill him.
And guess what?
This “pack-animal” instinct is in every dog – both domestic and wild.
And while domestic dogs don’t normally take this trait to the extremes wild
dogs do, it’s still in them.
You cannot breed it out of a dog’s line and you cannot fully suppress it with
training.
As it turned out, my friend’s dog considered himself to be the “leader of the
pack”. He thought he was the “master” of the house and my friend existed
to subordinate himself to the dog, not the other way around.
Before I tell you the ways my friend says to deal with this problem, let me
first say there are some dogs that really do need to be taken to a
professional trainer. Especially if they are biting people and acting violent.
But if your dog is basically just stubborn, insubordinate, and a little “testy,”
then here are a few simple ways to deal with the problem:
Get him neutered.
If you have a female dog, get her spayed.
Why?
Besides the fact it almost eliminates many dangerous (and expensive-to-fix)
health problems – such as certain cancers – in your dog, it also makes them
less likely to bite, be aggressive towards both people and animals, or want
to run away to seek out a mate.
And don’t worry. It’s never too late to sterilize your dog. Nor does it make
them lazy, fat or stupid – as some myths suggest.
Exercise.
Talk to enough dog handlers and sooner or later you will almost certainly
hear...
“A tired dog is a good dog!”
It’s true.
If your dog is always acting up, he probably just needs to be exercised.
Exactly what kind of exercise (and how much) depends on the breed.
But you will find tuckering your dog out in a good, healthy fashion is one
of the best ways to keep them under control and on their best behavior.
Just bear in mind not all exercises are good for all dogs – as certain dogs
have been genetically “hard wired” for certain types of work.
However, one “universal” type of exercise that tends to work for most dogs
is playing a simple 10-minute game of fetch.
Reason why is because it engages a dog physically and mentally – which
both tires them out and gets rid of their boredom, too.
This alone can sometimes eliminate a lot of behavior problems.
Alter your tone of voice.
This may seem over simplified, but altering your tonalities – even if you
don’t change your actual words – can completely change the behavior of
your dog.
Why?
Because sounds have an incredibly powerful effect on both people and
animals alike.
In chapter 4 we’ll talk more about this. And you’ll see scientific studies that
will change the way you look at noise and your dog forever.
But for now, realize you can work wonders with just the tone of your voice
when it comes to a testy, stubborn and disobedient dog.
The key is to use a low – yet calm and authoritative – voice when giving
him or her a command.
Do not – I repeat, do not – get angry or lose your temper. Just look him in
the eye (very important) when you give a command in a low (not loud)
voice.
You see, your dog needs to be put in his place. He needs to know you are
the leader of the pack and call the shots. You cannot do this if he hears
anger, fear or hesitation in your voice, or if you lose your temper.
Think about it:
If you lose your temper, he effectively just controlled you by controlling
your reaction. And he knows it. In some ways... he expects it from you.
Because, well, he considers himself the leader and you the follower.
And so, if you want to put him in his place and realize who the real “top
dog” is, then you have to take control of your own emotions.
Now, before we move on, please remember the above are basic solutions to
a common problem.
If your dog is vicious, angry and mean – especially if it’s to the point where
you are afraid of him or what he’ll do to others – take him to a professional
dog handler and veterinarian.
There could be deeper problems going on. And you and your family could
be in danger if you don’t get to the bottom of it.
Chapter 2
How to Get 100% Free Professional Dog Training
Lessons!
How would you like to get dog training lessons 100% free?
Not just the “basics”... but also advanced lessons you can use for any dog
you own for the rest of your life?
Lessons that would probably normally cost you an arm and a leg... and
maybe even require you to travel great distances or spend a lot of time you
don’t have?
Then look no further than your nearest dog shelter.
Here’s why:
Dog shelters are (most of the time) run by very good people.
People who not only love dogs... but are also well-trained and “up-to-snuff”
on the latest dog training tactics and techniques.
And if you go to your local shelters and volunteer (even if it’s just to walk
dogs a few times per week) you will (many times) find the people there will
generously share their knowledge with you.
For example:
When I go and walk dogs at the local shelter, I sometimes get to talking to
one of the attendants there.
Invariably, one thing leads to another and all the sudden I’m asking
questions about dogs and they’re happily answering my questions.
I am amazed at the wealth of knowledge dog shelter operators possess.
Knowledge that would normally require lots of studying and reading to
learn on my own.
Why would they do this – especially free?
Again, most dog shelter workers (that I’ve met, at least) love dogs, too.
They want you to be a good dog owner.
They want you to be happy and content with your dog.
Believe me – dog shelter operators see first-hand what happens to dogs who
are not with happy and content dog owners. These dogs often end up
abandoned, sold to some idiot who mistreats them or taken to the pound.
The last thing they want is for you to decide not to keep your dog simply
because you are frustrated and confused about how to train him or her.
And so, if you have a question about your dog, never hesitate to call up
your local dog shelter or just go in and ask someone there.
You can also consider volunteering at your local dog shelter, too.
Then it’d be almost impossible not to get experience and knowledge with a
wide variety of dog problems, issues and breeds.
By the way, we’ll talk more about how to save on vet bills later – but this
same concept applies to vets, too.
Whenever you go to your vet, you might as well ask any other questions
you have. Especially questions about preventative care.
Just like dog shelter operators, your vet (assuming you have a good one)
doesn’t want to see your dog in pain or suffering any more than you do.
You can learn all kinds of helpful things by chatting with a good vet. And if
they can help you by answering your questions they usually will.
Anyway, these are great ways to learn about dog training, health and
behavior issues without going broke.
Try them yourself and see.
You have nothing to lose... and a whole lot of money to save!
Chapter 3
Common Plants In Your Backyard and Living
Room That Can Seriously Injure (Even Kill) Your
Dog
It’s amazing how many people spend hundreds – even thousands – of
dollars on their dog, but put him in mortal danger every day by leaving
common, every day houseplants in easy-to-reach areas.
In fact, each year thousands of dogs are killed or poisoned by “ordinary”
plants – both outside and inside.
It’s so easy for this to happen, too.
Especially since most dogs (especially young puppies) want to play with
and put everything in their mouths – like outdoor and indoor plants which
are mostly poisonous to both humans and dogs alike.
And even if a plant isn’t inherently dangerous to a dog, chances are that
plant has been exposed to some toxic agent – like insecticide – that is.
So what do you do?
Well, first of all, I’m not saying you should get rid of your plants. What I
am saying is take a few precautions.
Believe me, it is not a pretty sight to see a dog who’s ingested a poisonous
plant.
Depending on the situation, your dog might experience anything from
swelling in the throat and kidneys... to vomiting and nausea... to seizures
and asphyxiation... to unconsciousness and even death.
So with that in mind, here are a couple things you can do starting today:
Get down on your hands and knees and start crawling around your house
and your back yard.
Sound strange?
Well, maybe it is.
But think about it:
Dogs (especially puppies) are a lot like kids.
They are at about the same height off the ground, they like to play with and
pick things up with their mouths... and they don’t know the difference
between something that is harmless and something that can seriously injure
them.
And the only way to know what will be immediately accessible to your dog
– especially those things that may look “tempting” to taste or play with, like
plants – is to get down on all fours and start crawling around.
See things from your dog’s perspective.
I’ve done this myself and I can tell you... it’s a whole other world down
there.
Totally different than what you are used to.
And you may find that, in many cases (especially outside), the nearest
deadly plant is not that hard to get at from the ground or floor.
Try it yourself (especially around Christmas – when poisonous plants,
bulbs, tinsel, decorations and toys abound) and you’ll see exactly what I
mean.
Familiarize yourself with common plants that are deadly poison to dogs
You can find many such lists on the Internet or in a book on dog training at
the library.
Below is a list of ones you may recognize in your home or yard:
• Aloe Vera
• Amaryllis
• Apricot
• Arrowgrass
• Asparagus
• Avocado
• Bird of paradise
• Buttercups
• Chinaberry
• Cyclamen
• Daffodil
• Easter lily
• Delphinium
• Foxglove
• Hemlock
• Holly
• Jasmine
• Mistletoe
• Mushrooms and toadstools
• Oleander
• Philodendron
• Larkspur
• Lily of the valley
• Nettle
• Privet
• Wisteria
• Rhubarb leaves
• ... and dozens more.
Again, these are just the common ones to look out for.
Do your homework on the Internet or the library if you aren’t sure about a
plant in your house or yard.
And if you ever do have an incident where your dog ingests a poisonous
plant, call the National Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435 or
your vet.
In fact, it’s always a good idea to have both numbers near your phones, just
as you would any other emergency number.
Chapter 4
How To Use Music To Calm Your Dog Down... No
Matter How Strung-Out, Hyper or Scared He Is
Would you like an almost fool-proof way to calm down your dog when she
gets excited, irritable, nervous or just plain rowdy?
Well, believe it or not, there is a way to soothe and relax your dog. And all
it takes is turning on your stereo to the classical music station!
It’s true.
Researchers have long established the positive effect music has on humans
(especially babies) and animals alike.
And there’s mountains of data proving how classical music relaxes and
calms down anxious and rowdy dogs.
In fact, just about every kind of dog-related professional out there has
attested to this.
Dog shelter operators, for example, consistently report how dogs bark less
and are much more relaxed when they play classical music – which results
in visitors staying longer and more dogs being adopted.
Dog groomers report there is less squirming on the grooming table when
classical music is playing.
And many dog kennel operators report dogs are less aggressive towards
each other, and even the more obnoxious dogs are more relaxed whenever
classical music is playing.
What kind of “magic” does classical music have on dogs?
Well, according to an interview with former rock-and-roll record producer
Terry Woodford (author of “Canine Lullabies”) conducted by Maryanne
Mott of the Christian Science Monitor, classical music works to calm dogs
down because it incorporates the basic principles of relaxation: simplicity,
repetition, predictability, and consistent tempo, as well as the compassion in
the singer’s voice.
If you want a more “scientific” explanation of this phenomenon, check out
the study done in 2002 by Deborah Wells at Queen’s University in Belfast,
Northern Ireland.
These researchers studied reactions of 50 dogs and found classical music
calmed the dogs down with them barking less and resting more.
Anyway, here’s the point:
If you want to relax your dog, and make him less nervous, jumpy, edgy and
rowdy... play some good old classical music – especially Bach and
Beethoven.
I have seen this phenomenon myself and it really does work.
And everyone I know who does this with their dogs says the same thing.
Try it yourself and see.
The next time you want your dog to calm down and behave, put a little
classical music on and watch what happens.
I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the results.
Chapter 5
Why You Should Never Give Your Dog A Bone!
A few years ago I was taking my dog, Kasha, to the vet to get treated for a
bizarre fungal infection that put her in a great deal of pain.
And when I took her to the vet, despite the fact her eyes were emitting puss
and her face looked like it was rotting away, I couldn’t help but notice the
frantic lady crashing through the vet’s doors holding her beagle in her arms,
crying hysterically.
The dog looked like it was turning a different color (could have been the
light) and was making a weird “hissing” sound. Despite the horrible
condition my own dog was in, I was more freaked out by this one.
A few days later I took my dog in for another check-up and casually asked
the lady at the desk about that other dog.
“What happened to that dog I saw the other day who was hacking and
hissing like a cat?” I asked.
“Oh, yes, poor dog ate a bone,” was the reply.
It took a second for me to process that.
“Did you just say the dog ate a bone?”
“Yes.”
“Was it poisoned or something?”
“Oh goodness no. It was a regular cooked chicken bone. You should never
give your dog a bone.”
Imagine that.
Who’d ever have thought you should never give a dog a bone?
I know I never thought about it before.
In fact, every dog we’ve ever had always gnawed on bones.
Turns out we were actually lucky none of those dogs ever ended up in the
vet.
You see, while it goes against everything we see in our popular culture,
bones are not good for dogs.
Year after year, dogs around the world are seriously injured – and
sometimes even killed – by bones.
What’s the problem with bones?
Well, for one thing bones have a tendency to splinter and get lodged in the
intestinal tract. This can sometimes mean major surgery costing you – the
dog’s owner – a bundle of money.
Another problem is dogs can choke on bones just as easily as you or I can
choke on bones.
Have you ever eaten a piece of fish and swallowed a bone? It can be an
awful, painful experience. And it’s no different for dogs.
Sometimes people will say, “Well, what about wolves in the wild? Don’t
they eat bones? You don’t see them hacking or suffering from intestinal
pain!”
And that’s true.
But only because when wolves eat their prey, they eat not only the meat and
bones... but the hair and fur of their victims, too. And that hair ends up
protecting the wolf’s insides from the sharp edges and debris of the bones.
Okay, so if you’re not supposed to feed your dog a bone, what can you feed
her?
Well, first off, I’d stay away from things like rawhide bones, pig’s ears, and
cow hooves. They all have their own health risks associated with them.
The vets I’ve talked to about this say Nylabones are okay. These bones are
made from pure nylon and are extremely tough. They also come in edible
form with vitamins and nutrients in them. You may want to check them out.
Plus, they don’t splinter easily and can take a lot of abuse by your dog (I
can still remember how even our bull terrier – a breed with exceptionally
strong jaws – used to take a while to get through them).
Another good bone substitute may be raw bones.
Raw bones (as opposed to cooked bones) are softer and easier to eat.
To be on the safe side, ask your vet first.
And make sure you tell the butcher exactly what you’re looking for. You
don’t want to feed your dog raw bones with sharp angles or sawed edges.
Again, ask your vet.
Whatever the case, just please realize bones are generally not good for dogs
and there are better and safer alternatives.
Chapter 6
Five Foods Which Are Fine and Dandy For
Humans but Deadly Poison To Dogs
I’ll never forget it.
It was my 14th birthday and my mom was making a double layered yellow
cake with green frosting on top for me.
I was on the couch watching TV, and my mom was working in the kitchen
washing things up. We were both waiting for the two cakes she had just
taken out of the oven ten minutes earlier to cool on the counter top.
Meanwhile, Frantzee – our quiet, sleepy and unapologetically lazy
Dalmatian – was quietly lying in the corner, curled up and looking half
asleep.
Sometimes, when someone looked at him or walked by, you’d see his tail
thump up and down off the linoleum floor.
But other than that, he was quiet as a mouse.
Then something happened (can’t remember exactly what it was) on the
other end of the house and my mom and I went to see what it was.
Imagine our surprise when we came back five minutes later and noticed an
entire layer of the cake had completely vanished off the counter top!
And I mean vanished. As in “thin air.”
There wasn’t so much as a crumb on the floor or on the counter.
Now, the way I see it, only one of two things could have happened:
Either a ghost came and took the cake or... Frantzee – the world’s laziest,
slowest and most unmotivated dog – managed to jump up high enough to
put his forepaws on the counter, grab the layer of cake, and polish the entire
thing off (without leaving so much as a crumb of evidence) and then get
back to his sleeping spot as if nothing happened.
Personally, I don’t think it was ghosts.
And so that left just one culprit – Frantzee.
Okay, why am I telling you this?
Two reasons:
1. I want you to know just how sneaky, smart and resourceful the average
dog can be. Especially the ones who don’t look or act the part.
2. And because dogs can be so sneaky and resourceful, it’s absolutely
essential you never leave foods out – even on a counter top – that are
poisonous to dogs.
Think about it:
In our case, we were lucky we left a yellow cake out, and not a chocolate
cake. Because, as you probably know, chocolate and dogs don’t mix.
But besides chocolate, there are some other foods just as harmful to your
dog’s health.
Take, for example, onions.
Onions can cause a condition known as hemolytic anemia in dogs. This is
an especially vile condition that kills their red blood cells.
So make sure when you use onions to sweep up any that fall on the floor.
And make sure you keep the garbage bag away from anywhere your dog
can get to it.
Another bad food for dogs is garlic – which can cause a similar condition as
onions.
Now, you may not think garlic (or onions, for that matter) are something a
dog would want to sniff and eat. But you never know. After all, dogs eat
things that smell and taste a lot worse, don’t they?
Another common food to watch out for are grapes and raisins.
If eaten in large enough amounts, they can cause everything from vomiting
and diarrhea... to serious kidney problems.
Also, if your dog is outside a lot, make sure you keep her away from
mushrooms.
Mushroom toxicity can cause liver disease, neurological problems and
sometimes... they can even be fatal.
Finally, a really common food dogs can easily get to (especially around the
holidays) are nuts.
Walnuts are especially poisonous to dogs. And other kinds of nuts can
sometimes cause bladder stones.
For more information on ordinary foods that can harm your dog, talk to
your vet. You’ll be amazed how many “normal” foods are toxic to your dog.
And always remember, if you even so much as suspect your dog has eaten
something poisonous, call your vet or call the ASPCA Animal Poison
Control Center at 888-426-4435.
Don’t wait. Sometimes symptoms of toxicity can take several hours to
appear.
So call someone immediately.
Chapter 7
How to Quickly And Easily Teach Your Dog to
Eliminate Outside... Instead of on Your Carpet or
Floor
I don’t know if you’ve ever written a book... but it’s one of those things in
life where everyone wants to have done it – but nobody really wants to do
the actual writing.
And you know what?
It’s the same with housebreaking a new puppy.
The only thing I dread about new puppies is the housebreaking.
In fact, there was a time when I would have done anything – paid any
amount of money – to “fast forward” past this part.
Hopefully the information in this chapter will help take most of the “sting”
out of it for you.
To make it simple, first remember that a puppy really does want to please
you. And that there are basically only four times a puppy is likely to have to
“do his duty”:
1. First thing in the morning
2. After taking a nap
3. After eating and drinking
4. After a lot of playing and exercising
Knowing that should give you a good “schedule” as to when your puppy
needs to go so you can head off any accidents at the pass. The key is to take
her out and then, right after she goes, shower her with praise and affection.
This is the whole secret.
Whenever she goes where she’s supposed to go, praise her, pet her and act
like she just saved your life. That way she knows she did good and pleased
you.
And besides that, here are some finer points about housebreaking:
Females are easier to train than males.
Why?
Because when females go they’re done. Males, on the other hand, have to
go in several different spots to mark their territory in as many places as
possible.
Which means just because he’s urinated... doesn’t necessarily mean he’s
done. And may indeed have more to eliminate.
Again, your new puppy wants to please you. He wants to love you. He
wants nothing more than for you – his new master – to love him.
but...
Don’t expect miracles.
When you bring a puppy home it is a huge change for him. There are all
these new smells, sounds, surroundings and people. His playmates are
nowhere to be found. The people who were previously taking care of him
have suddenly vanished.
It’s the equivalent of “culture shock.”
Imagine living your entire childhood in a big country home, with a big yard
and all your brothers, sisters and friends around you to play with. And
then... all the sudden... getting adopted away and taken to a big city.
That’s how it is for your new puppy. Just give her a chance and she’ll adapt.
But don’t expect housebreaking miracles right away.
Prepare a special pen (big enough to walk around in) in the kitchen just for
your dog.
If you have a “doggy door” on the kitchen door to the outside, even better!
But not only do most kitchens have floors that are easy to clean... but it is
also a place where people tend to congregate and your puppy will not feel
so alone.
And make sure the pen is big enough where if he has an “accident” he can
do it in a place other than where he sleeps.
He’s probably going to have an accident at least once – probably on the first
night – and dogs are trained by their mothers not to go in their resting place.
Make it easy for him. Don’t confuse him on this important lesson he should
already know before you adopt him.
Finally, try this “warp speed” housebreaking secret
I learned this recently from my dad who used it to train his Airedale,
O’Reilly.
It usually takes anywhere from a few weeks to a few months to housebreak
a dog. But with this tactic, it took my dad about two weeks, tops.
What you do is first thing in the morning – before you do anything – take
your dog outside. When he goes (and he will) praise him.
Then, as often as you can throughout the day (even if he doesn’t have to go)
take him out. Maybe every hour or so.
If you work during the day, then at night, when you are watching TV, take
your dog out after every show. He may not have to go every time. But
watch him and stay with him until he does.
Do this three or four times before you go to bed. Each time he goes, even if
it’s just to mark his territory, praise him.
And that’s it.
I know it sounds simple, but it’s that constant repetition of taking him out
and then immediately praising him that speeds up the process.
You still want to take him out at the four times he’s likely to go.
But by taking him out every hour like this whenever you can – whether he
has to go or not – you will speed up the process and housebreak your dog in
a fraction of the time!
Chapter 8
Two Specific Minerals All Dogs Need... And
Where to Find Them
Let’s discuss a little-talked about (and admittedly rare) health problem that
faces dogs.
A problem that is easily fixed when caught early. But, if ignored, can cost
you a lot of money in vet bills, and your dog a loss of physical freedom.
Listen to this:
A little while back I went with my dad to pick up his two dogs at the
“doggy daycare” they take them when they leave for an extended period of
time.
When we walked in to get his dogs, I noticed a small dachshund (you
know... “wiener dogs”) in a cage sitting by himself.
I remember thinking that was kind of odd since all the other dogs were
playing and running around.
True, some dogs are put in a cage for the occasional “time out” when they
are misbehaving. But, looking at this little dog, I just couldn’t see that being
the case with him.
I walked over to investigate and tried to get him to walk over to the side of
the cage so I could let him smell my hand and pet him.
No matter what I did, the dog wouldn’t budge. He just sat there looking at
me with a kind of sadness in his eyes.
“He can’t really move on his own,” said a voice behind me. It was one of
the doggy daycare operators.
“What’s wrong with him?” I asked.
“Poor dog’s got rickets. See his legs?”
I looked at his legs and noticed they were warped looking. As if somehow
they grew into a bent shape, and not the natural shape a dog’s legs are
supposed to look like.
The operator then told me it would be extremely painful for him to move.
And that luckily he was set to have some surgery (not cheap surgery, either)
to correct the problem.
Anyway, what’s my point of telling you this?
My point is that although this condition of rickets is rare, it does happen.
And with a new puppy it’s good to take the necessary precautions so this
doesn’t happen to her. Otherwise, she could end up not being able to walk
or move without experiencing some major pain.
And so, it is always helpful to get at least a basic understanding of what
rickets are, and how to prevent them from happening.
Rickets is basically the swelling of the joints and the literal bending of long
bones. It’s a terrible deformity that can make it painful for a dog to walk...
or even move in some cases.
What causes rickets?
Well, first of all, as a puppy (especially if you own a bigger dog – like a
Saint Bernard) your dog is growing very fast. By fast I mean they go from
“zero to maturity” in a couple years.
And they need the proper ratio of calcium, phosphorus, and vitamin D for
their bones to grow properly and in correlation with each other.
If you don’t do this... if you don’t make sure they are getting the right
amount of these specific nutrients... your puppy’s bones will probably arch
outwards due to the pressure of his body weight.
The results can range from swollen, painful joints... to constant weakness
and refusal to use one or more legs due to frequent bone fractures.
Although I’ve never seen this personally, I have heard of cases where this
has gotten so bad the puppy’s bone structure started to deteriorate and, over
time, basically became an invalid.
What can you do to make sure this doesn’t happen to your puppy?
For starters, make sure she gets the right food.
It’s not enough to make sure she gets food with calcium and phosphorus. It
must be the right balance. Check with your vet to make sure the dog food
you use has this right combination right away.
Another thing is to make sure your dog gets enough sunlight.
Lack of vitamin D is just as responsible for rickets as the wrong
combination of calcium and phosphorus. So make sure she’s getting enough
exercise outside in the sun.
For more information on this, talk to your vet or do a little research.
This isn’t a really common problem for most dogs. But it does happen.
And the last thing you want is a dog who ends up with severe bone and
joint problems.
Not only is it expensive for you, but it is extremely painful for your dog,
too.
Chapter 9
A Common Ingredient in Most Dog Foods That
Can Make Him Sick and Die Early
One of the best dogs I’ve ever had the pleasure of knowing was a dog my
dad had named Garry.
Garry was a bull terrier and an absolute joy to be around. He had nothing
but love in his heart and to this day (ten years after his passing) my dad and
I still talk about him.
And yet, while almost everything we remember about Garry was good,
there was one thing about him that made it hard to hang out with him for
prolonged periods of time.
And that was the nauseating (and deadly silent) farts he would unleash at
any given time.
It’s true.
I still remember being attacked by a vicious cloud of gas as Garry lay at my
feet with a mischievous grin on his egg-shaped face.
You think I’m joking?
I wish.
Fact is, it was so bad – and happened so often – my dad actually had a can
of air freshener standing by morning, noon, and night!
Unfortunately back then we didn’t know then what we know now.
That one of the big cause of gas is the same thing that causes smelly stools,
bad breath, tartar-packed teeth and sore gums:
Too many carbohydrates – especially grains – in a dog’s diet.
And the sad thing is the vast majority of dog owners feed their dogs foods
that contain mostly grains.
I suppose it’s understandable.
Especially since it’s not widely known how grains are generally bad for
dogs. And many of us think we are getting a good deal on grain based dog
food (which tends to be cheap) instead of meat based dog food (which tends
to be more expensive).
If you buy your dog grain-based food, I would highly encourage you to
switch your dog to a more protein and meat-based diet instead.
Reason why is because the canine body is not designed to digest grains and
carbohydrates. It’s designed to break down and digest meats and raw food
only.
Dogs have very simple and short acidic digestive tracts not designed for
grains.
And so, just like when you have trouble digesting a meal your body doesn’t
agree with, the side effects of a dog eating a carb-based diet can be quite
unpleasant for not only the dog – but you as well.
I mean, let’s face it.
A dog who farts excessively and is more prone to getting certain diseases
isn’t exactly paradise.
Does this mean you should never feed your dog grains?
That you should basically put your dog on some kind of canine version of
the “Atkins diet”?
Not at all.
Especially since that would mean almost never giving your dog a milk bone
or similar treat. Which is all but a crime against your dog who loves you
and wants nothing more than to please you.
Just look at grains like you would look at junk food for yourself or your
kids. Give it in moderation and don’t make grains the foundation of their
diet.
And of course, talk to your vet before changing your dog’s diet.
I’ll cover how to safely change your dog’s diet in more detail in chapter 13.
But for now, take a good, hard look at what’s in the food you buy your dog.
If it is grain-based (i.e. corn, rice, oats, and so on) start looking for a meat
and raw food based dog food instead.
If nothing else, you should save a good chunk of change on air freshener!
Chapter 10
Which So-Called “Safe” Dog Toys Can Severely
Injure Your Dog
Did you hear that bizarre and strange news story about the python snake
who swallowed an electric blanket whole?
I won’t go into all the gruesome details here. Let’s just say it was not a
pleasant thing to read about.
But it did get me thinking about all the strange and dangerous things I have
heard of dogs swallowing – like gold necklaces, shoes, watches and other
“ordinary” objects that can cause a dog intense pain (and require expensive
surgery to fix).
And while the chances are your dog will never go to most of these extreme
lengths (hopefully!), you can never be too safe when it comes to the toys
you buy him.
In fact, no matter how big, tough or powerful your dog is... if he ends up
swallowing a piece of a toy (or the whole toy itself )... he can choke and
suffer some pretty serious injuries – such as a tear in his stomach or
gastrointestinal system.
And make no mistake. Even the most innocent and safe-looking toys can
have a lot of “danger value” when you examine them closely.
For example, let’s take the seemingly innocent and safe rawhide bone.
I don’t know if you’ve ever seen a dog go at one of these. But sometimes
(many times) I have seen dogs chew and gnaw them to the point where they
develop sharp edges that cut the dog’s tongue, lips and mouth.
This not only opens the door for health problems for your dog (like
infections), but his blood can get on your rug or carpet, and be difficult to
remove.
As if that wasn’t bad enough, rawhide (i.e., cow skin) has already been
treated with toxic chemicals that aren’t necessarily good for your dog either.
And it can easily be torn (especially if you have a strong dog) into little
chunks she can choke on.
That’s just one example of a toy that can harm your dog.
Here are some more toys you might want to avoid:
Tennis balls.
The fuzz is a natural abrasive and can wear down your dog’s teeth.
Sometimes all the way down to the nerves.
And the chemicals in the fuzz aren’t exactly good for your dog’s health,
either.
Toys with stuffing inside.
This is probably already obvious to you. But it’s worth mentioning.
After all, if you give your dog a toy with stuffing inside, how long do you
think it’s going to take to puncture the outside of it and get to that stuffing?
And, when that happens, what do you think the chances are of your dog
ignoring that stuffing and not trying to eat it?
Toys that are more than one part.
Such as toys with eyes, noses, or anything that can be yanked or pulled off
the toy. The last thing you want is your dog ripping a plastic eye off a toy
and swallowing it.
Heck, when I was a kid I used to get “Star Wars” action figures and I’d end
up chewing on their hands and feet. Not just the small ones. But the big
ones, too – like space ship and monster toys.
After a while, the paint was gone and I’d chew on the little bits of plastic.
What’s my point?
This: If a five year old kid can do that much damage to a toy... imagine
what a dog with teeth and an urge to eat everything in sight can do to them!
Anything that “squeaks.”
The thing inside the toys that make the squeaking sound can many times be
removed, eaten and swallowed by a tenacious dog who can’t resist finding
out what’s making the noise.
Now, all this said, there are dog toys on the market that are safe.
Just make sure you read the labels and do your homework.
And, if you’re not sure, get your vet’s opinion first.
Chapter 11
Why Your Dog Could Be In Blinding Pain...
Without You Knowing It
One frightening fact about dogs is they can be feeling an immense amount
of pain and be enduring extreme suffering – without you even knowing it!
I’ll give you an example.
Remember Garry, the farting bull terrier I mentioned earlier?
Well, he was not only a great dog, but he was also an unusually tough dog
(which is typical of his breed).
And my dad once told me the thing he felt worst about when it came to
Garry was he waited too long to put Garry down.
You see, Garry had all kinds of health problems towards the end of his life.
He had trouble with his liver and blood and was in constant pain whenever
he walked. So much pain that, in his last few days, it took almost an hour
for him to walk outside, do his duty, and come back in.
And my dad said he would have put Garry down at least a few weeks earlier
if he’d realized what kind of pain he was in until after the fact.
Okay, so why am I telling you this?
Because if you own a dog, you have to realize they don’t always let us
know when they are in pain or when they are sick.
And there is one pretty common ailment that strikes dogs (especially those
with hairy and/or floppy ears – like Cocker Spaniels or Bloodhounds) that
is extremely painful for dogs, but that can be easily identified if you know
what to look for.
And that ailment is a simple ear infection.
Ear infections may not sound like much. But they can be almost unbearably
painful for your dog and quite expensive to fix if untreated.
Now, as far as treating and dealing with ear infections, talk to your vet. I
don’t want to give you incomplete information about this serious condition.
(Especially inner ear infections.)
However, what I can do here is help you detect when your dog has an ear
infection so you can (hopefully) take care of it before it gets too serious or
painful.
With that said, here are some telltale signs your dog has an ear infection:
A strange odor or discharge coming from one or both ears.
This may sound obvious. But it bears mentioning just in case.
It doesn’t take more than a second or two, but every once in a while when
you are playing with or petting your dog, lean over and smell her ears.
Maybe even take a flashlight and look inside.
If she has an infection, there’s a good chance you will smell it or see a
yellow, brown or black discharge.
Your dog is sensitive around one or both ears.
In other words, if you notice one or both ears look red – or “raw” – it could
be an ear infection.
Your dog is constantly scratching his ear or rubbing
it against the furniture or on the carpet.
This is pretty easy to see.
And if your dog does this, and does it a lot, then he may have an ear
infection.
Walking funny.
Sometimes ear infections can affect your dog’s equilibrium and cause them
to walk as if they are dizzy.
And of course, if you notice more than one of the symptoms above, you
should take your dog to the vet.
One last thing.
Some people will say ear infections aren’t that big a deal.
That all you have to do is clean the dog’s ears out with vinegar, or vitamin
C or some other over-the-counter solutions.
And if it is a simple outer ear infection, your vet may very well tell you to
do one or more of these things.
But, if he has an inner ear infection (which is considerably more
dangerous), or if all the scratching and rubbing bursts a blood vessel in his
ear flap, things will get very complicated fast.
And that’s why you should see your vet if you see any of the symptoms
above – no matter how “harmless” or simple to fix they seem.
Chapter 12
Exactly How Many Times Per Day You Should
Feed Your Dog For Maximum Health
If you’re like 99% of dog owners in the world, chances are your morning
“routine” goes something like this:
You wake up to an alarm clock (or a dog’s wet nose) and you immediately
take the dog outside.
If you have a fenced in yard, you probably just let him out.
And while your dog is out answering the call of nature, you then go to the
big bag of dog food in the corner, scoop out your dog’s ration for the day,
pour it in his bowl, let him in and watch him start eating.
From there you go about your day feeding your dog little treats now and
then and not really thinking much about it.
Now, there’s nothing inherently bad about doing this.
But it could be making your dog less healthy and shortening his life span.
Here’s why:
At the end of the day dogs and humans are not all that different.
Especially when it comes to eating.
I mean, think about it.
What if all you had was one big meal every day in the morning?
How would you feel throughout the day?
Do you think that would make you more or less likely to seek out food all
day?
Well, dogs are the same way.
And that’s why there is an increasing number of vets and dog experts who
are saying we should feed our dogs not once per day – but two or three
times per day. Just like the way we feed ourselves.
Here are a few reasons why:
Better metabolism.
Dog, cat, human or Martian – it’s easier to digest multiple small meals than
one big meal.
Less tendency to put on weight before they age.
Like humans, dogs tend to put on weight as they get older.
And they have a much lower chance of being overweight in their younger
years if you keep their digestion normal and their metabolism high.
That way, when they do start putting on a few pounds, it doesn’t have as
negative of an effect on them as it normally would.
Maybe less begging.
I say “maybe” because I have known only a few dogs (such as a rescue dog
my dad owns) who won’t eat everything in sight when given a chance – no
matter how “full” they are.
But when a dog eats two or three small meals they aren’t as hungry
(especially towards the end of the day) as they would be if they just eat
once in the morning.
Whatever the case, it’s worth testing either way.
If you feed your dog just one big meal per day, try breaking it up into two
meals and see what happens.
If you like the results, break it up into three.
Remember that all dogs are different. And what’s good for one dog may not
be good for another.
But it’s definitely worth experimenting with.
Especially if you notice their weight drop (or become easier to manage) and
become healthier overall.
Chapter 13
The Only 3 Reasons You Should Ever Change
Your Dog’s Diet
If you have noticed your dog’s coat isn’t as shiny as it could be, his eyes not
as bright, he doesn’t have as much energy, or something just seems
“wrong,” it could be a simple matter of changing his food.
This is another of those things where we humans are almost identical to
dogs.
However, changing your dog’s food is actually a complicated ordeal. And
before doing so, you should always check with your vet to make sure it
really is the food causing your dog’s lack of health and spunk.
Basically, there are only three times when you should change your dog’s
food:
1. You discover the food your dog has been eating is the canine
equivalent of eating fast food every day.
There are dog foods on the market that claim to be good for your dog but
simply are not.
So do your homework and make sure you are giving your dog truly good
food – and not a bunch of junk food every day.
2. Your vet advises a change.
Of course, if he advises a change, make sure he gives you some leads on
exactly what to eat. And if you notice he sells the food (some vets do) he
wants you to give your dog, take his advice with a grain of salt.
I’m not saying the food is bad. And I’m not saying not to use his food. In
most cases the the food he sells will probably be excellent.
But do your homework and make sure it’s got the right nutrients in it.
I don’t want to give the impression vets are in the habit of selling out for a
quick dollar. But there are bad apples in every bunch and you have to make
sure you can spot them.
3. Your dog is not healthy.
Again, if your dog just doesn’t seem “right” – not necessarily sick or
anything like that, but just “off” – consider changing her food.
In some cases it can be a “night and day” difference.
Now, with all that said, here are some basic guidelines when changing your
dog’s food:
First of all, do it gradually.
Why?
Because a quick change can potentially cause nasty problems. Like long
bouts of vomiting and diarrhea.
Plus, if your dog has been eating terrible food, and you switch to a healthy
food, his body will not be used to it and will have to quickly adapt.
This can make him feel sick, weak, tired and depressed.
We humans are the same way.
If you don’t believe me, try eating Burger King at every meal for an entire
year and then suddenly switch your diet to eating just salads.
Even though you’re eating “better” food, the sudden switch will make you
feel sick, tired and “down” for a while as your body detoxifies and adapts.
And that’s exactly how a dog feels when they go from all bad food to all
good food in one shot.
So do it gradually.
Slowly incorporate the new food into the old food over a week or two until
he is eating a full bowl of the new food.
And finally, be sure to track in writing what happens to your dog’s health.
Take detailed notes of her coat, mood, energy, teeth, smell, appetite, stool,
etc.
This way you can see if the new dog food is helping or not, and decide if
you should try another brand.
Chapter 14
Why “Genius Dogs” Are Harder To Train Than
Regular Dogs
Have you ever watched those TV shows on “Animal Planet” or news
segments where they show dogs doing things that almost seem like magic?
Such as opening doors, answering phones, turning on lights, and so on?
When I was a kid, I used to dream of having a super intelligent dog who
could do things like that. A “genius” dog who could “wow” everyone and
make me the envy of my friends.
Today?
Well, today... brilliance is almost the last thing I want in a dog.
Why?
Simply because smart dogs tend to be more disobedient, stubborn and
dominant (see chapter 1).
And... from what I know and understand... they are much harder to train as
well.
For example: I have a friend who has an extremely intelligent Doberman.
This dog can do things I didn’t even know were possible for dogs to be able
to do!
Like, for instance, opening the refrigerator door, grabbing him a beer and
then bringing it to him.
When I asked him how he did it, he said it wasn’t easy. In fact, he said
training his smart dog to just be obedient (like stop barking) was the
equivalent of pulling teeth.
Reason why is because – just like human geniuses – smart dogs tend to be
great problem solvers and are easily bored.
In other words, they figure out what you’re up to during training, and want
to get back to having fun.
This often means them teaching you how to stop a training session.
What is my point in telling you this?
If you have a dog who is naturally smart, be prepared for a bit of a
challenge when it comes to getting him to behave and do as you say.
Although his potential will be such that he can perform amazing tricks and
tasks none of your friends’ dogs will ever be able to do – you are going to
have your hands full just getting him to listen to you and stay interested in
what you are teaching him.
In my opinion, your best bet is to work with a professional trainer and let
them show you how to do it.
Because if you try it on your own, you’re probably going to end up
frustrated, angry and probably mad at your dog. With his only “crime”
being too smart.
Chapter 15
How To Know How Your Dog Is Feeling... Simply
By Looking At Her Eyes
You’ve probably heard the old saying, “the eyes are the window to the
soul.”
Well, for dogs, the eyes are also the window to their health.
It’s a fact.
This may sound oversimplified, but one surefire way to tell if your dog is
having health problems is simply by looking at her eyes.
If your dog’s eyes are not bright, shining and healthy looking, there is
probably some kind of problem.
Which makes sense when you realize dogs’ eyes are actually especially
vulnerable to disease.
And so, if you learn some of the “warning signs” your dog’s eyes will give
off when there is a health problem, then you will be going a long way
towards saving yourself a pile of vet bills and saving your dog the pain of
having a bad ailment.
Which is why every day – or at least every week – you should consider
getting in the habit of cleaning your dog’s eyes.
The safe way to do this is with a simple cotton ball dipped in warm (not
hot) water and wiping away any crust, puss and shed hair.
Plus, it allows you to take a good look at your dog’s eyes to make sure he is
healthy.
Specifically, look for these four things:
1. Cloudiness
2. Swelling
3. Redness
4. Excessive squinting
This may be the case with your dog all the time if he has allergies.
But if he doesn’t have allergies (or, if he does and his eyes are exceptionally
cloudy, swollen or red) contact your vet immediately.
He could have the beginning stages of such diseases as conjunctivitis (a
very common canine eye problem), entropion (where the eyelids turn
inward, and cause the eyelashes to literally scratch the cornea of the eye), or
even something called “Cherry Eye” – a bizarre condition where the dog’s
tear gland shoots outward, making his cornea vulnerable to all sorts of
problems.
There are actually more eye problems than that.
The point here is call your vet if you see anything out of the ordinary with
your dog’s eyes. Some of these ailments and problems can be quickly fixed.
Some get a lot worse the longer you wait.
So if you see anything not right with your dog’s eyes, don’t hesitate taking
her to the vet.
Chapter 16
How To Tell If There’s A Tick in Your Dog’s Fur...
Even If You Can’t See It and She Never Scratches
At It
Depending on where you live, there’s a very good chance your dog is at risk
of getting at least one tick in her lifetime.
Now, I don’t know how familiar you are with ticks, but let’s just say they
are the insect equivalent of a vampire.
They are extremely small and they latch on to your dog, burrow their way
into his skin and drink as much blood as they can.
And since ticks carry all kinds of different diseases, you want to make sure
you know what they look like and if your dog has one as soon as possible.
The good news is you don’t have to sit there with a magnifying glass and
cover your dog’s entire body looking for it.
In fact, there is a way to tell if your dog has a tick without even seeing it.
Here’s what you do:
As often as you can (if you live in tick territory, like in the woods of
Wisconsin, for example, you should do this daily) examine your dog’s fur
and see if you find any odd lumps or bumps.
Just rub your hands through his fur and coat as if you were giving him a
massage.
If you feel an especially small and hard bump, it’s probably a tick.
If you find one, take your dog to the vet immediately or remove it yourself
with a pair of tweezers.
To remove it yourself, take a pair of sterile tweezers, grab the tick as far
down as you can, and, without squeezing too hard, gently yank it up and
away from your dog.
Then simply wipe his skin down with some antibacterial soap and you’re
done.
The key is to do this slowly and thoroughly.
If you don’t get the entire tick out of your dog’s skin he could get a nasty
infection.
In fact, if you do not get the entire tick out, take your dog to the vet as soon
as possible and have them get the rest of it out.
Chapter 17
A “Fool Proof” Way of Knowing If Your Dog Is
Really Too Skinny... Or Too Fat
As of now obesity is one of the most widespread diseases in dogs.
It leads to all sorts of terrible health problems and significantly shorter life
spans.
And the frustrating thing about this is, it is sometimes hard to tell if your
dog really is overweight or not!
In fact, most dog owners who have clinically obese (or dangerously thin)
dogs never even know it.
Why?
Because sometimes it is almost impossible to tell by looking alone due to
the way a dog’s anatomy is designed (with the fur, etc.).
And so, when a sickness or disease caused by obesity sets in... they almost
never see it coming.
So how do you tell if your dog is overweight or not?
Fortunately, it’s not rocket science.
In fact, you don’t even so much as need a measuring tape or scale.
Here’s all you do:
Take a good look at your dog.
Do you see her ribcage?
If so, she’s too skinny. You should never be able to physically see a dog’s
ribcage. Otherwise, they are underweight.
If you cannot see her ribcage, put your hands on it.
Do you feel her ribcage?
If you can feel her ribcage (but not see it) then your dog is at her ideal
weight. Nothing to worry about.
But...
If you cannot feel her ribcage... then chances are she’s overweight.
Again, you can put the scale and tape measure away.
It’s not going to be as accurate a gage as feeling her ribcage because the
“ideal” weight of a dog is different for all of them.
True, each breed has an average healthy weight.
But there are always going to be dogs within each breed that are bigger or
smaller than the size of dog they are basing their so-called ideal weight on.
And so, when in doubt, feel for the ribcage.
Chapter 18
How to Test Your Dog’s Hearing
Although it’s not pleasant to think about, one thing we all need to realize
about dogs is they can sometimes lose their hearing.
It could be due to genetics, old age or some other ailment.
And while it doesn’t happen to all dogs, it can happen. And the earlier you
see the warning signs, the better the chances of lessening the hearing loss or
stopping it altogether.
Luckily, it’s pretty easy to check your dog’s hearing.
You can have a vet do it, too, if you want to be sure.
But if you just want to check on your own every now and then, all you need
to do is this:
Approach your dog when he is distracted by something else.
Like while he’s playing with a toy or looking out the window at the
neighborhood activity.
Doesn’t really matter exactly what he’s doing, as long as he’s not really
paying attention to you.
And what you do is make some kind of noise to get his attention.
For example, you can call his name, drop a book on the floor, sneeze or
cough real loud (like when you have a cold or allergies), knock on the wall,
etc.
The thing is to make a noise loud enough to get his attention.
When you do this, if your dog doesn’t immediately look at you – the source
of the noise – then he may have hearing problems.
You should always try this a few times just to make sure.
Another way to check your dog’s hearing is to start noticing his reaction to
sounds – such as the doorbell or other noises he normally reacts to.
If you notice he isn’t reacting to these things then, again, there could be a
hearing problem.
You have probably noticed I keep saying “could” be a hearing problem.
Reason why is because it may not be.
Or, if it is, it may not necessarily be a medical problem.
And so, before rushing him over to the vet, check for a build up of earwax
or some other kind of obstruction (I have heard of dogs getting anything
from seeds to hair buildup to bugs stuck in their ears).
This could very well be the problem if he frequently shakes his head and
scratches at his ear.
Whatever the case, see if there are any visible obstructions. Sometimes the
problem could be as simple as that.
On the other hand, if you can’t put your finger on the problem, take him
straight to the vet for a thorough examination.
Chapter 19
The Best Time of the Day to Check for Fleas,
Ticks, or Hidden Injuries
Several years ago I was playing with my dog, Kasha, outside. It was wet
and muddy and we were both pretty dirty.
Not wanting to get in any more trouble with my mother (who had just taken
Kasha to be groomed and shampooed the day before) I figured I had better
bathe Kasha and make sure she was brushed and groomed.
After bathing her I used a brush to get rid of some of the tangles (she is
nothing but fur and hair) and I saw a spot of sticky liquid.
Definitely not water or shampoo, because it was sticky.
Upon closer inspection, I noticed she had a small cut that was obviously
infected, as it oozed a yellowish pus.
And I remember thinking why didn’t the groomer mention anything about
this?
After all, he just spent several hours shampooing and grooming her.
When I asked the groomer if he noticed anything he said yes, but was so
busy he forgot to mention it.
Normally I would have been angry. But not this time. Because you see, in
an odd way he did us a big favor.
His negligence made us realize two important things:
1. Don’t count on the groomer to discover these things.
It’s not that groomers are bad people.
But many times they are swamped with customers and simply don’t have
time to notice every little detail about your dog.
It’s sort of like what happened to my dad not too long ago when he was
diagnosed with two forms of cancer and only caught one of them.
Because the doctors were so busy and concentrating on the one cancer, they
almost missed the skin cancer that was growing on his back. (Luckily,
someone spotted it before it was too late).
That didn’t make the doctors bad people any more than it makes a dog
groomer who misses a big black spot on your dog’s skin a bad person.
But it does illustrate the importance of not leaving your dog’s health totally
in someone else’s hands.
2. You should bathe and groom your dog yourself every once in a while.
Maybe not all the time. But at least every few months or so.
Reason why is because, as I discovered after finding Kasha’s infection,
right after bathing your dog, and letting his hair air dry, is the perfect time
to start checking for things like injuries, ticks, fleas or any other problems.
In fact, by bathing and grooming your dog yourself every now and then,
you will be much more likely to notice an infected scratch, a bump that
doesn’t go away, or any other injury or irritation.
Chapter 20
What To Do If Your Dog Gets Injured... and
There’s Nobody Around To Help
When I was a kid I had a friend who was inseparable from his large German
Shepherd.
They would do everything together, go everywhere together, and were
essentially “joined at the hip.”
One of the things they did a lot of was play rough.
And I mean they would go at it.
My friend would wrestle his dog all over the yard. Chase him around. And
basically pick fights with the dog (who loved every minute of it) whenever
he got bored.
But one day he was playing hard with his dog around some rocks by a
nearby river. And the dog slipped and ended up with a sharp rock sinking
into his hip.
My friend ran to my house to get my help and, when we got back to his
dog, we found him in a lot of pain and bleeding all over the place.
Luckily for my friend (and his dog!) a neighbor was driving by in his
pickup truck, and they were able to get the dog to the animal hospital right
away.
Reason I tell you this story is because, if you are someone who likes to play
with your dog (especially if you play hard), then there is good chance either
you or your dog will sustain some kind of accidental injury.
And while my friend’s German Shepherd was saved from bleeding to death
by pure luck, your dog may not be so lucky should he sustain a bad cut or
injury.
Fortunately, if something bad does happen where your dog is bleeding
massively – such as a damaged artery or vein – and needs his bleeding to be
contained, there are a few simple steps you can take to stabilize the
situation before you make it to the vet.
1. Calm your dog down.
This may not be so easy if he’s a naturally obnoxious dog.
But if you don’t calm him down his cut could get worse.
2. Apply pressure to the cut area.
Exactly as you’d do if you were cut.
Why?
Because applying pressure controls the bleeding and allows it to clot (and
hopefully heal).
One paramedic told me it’s kind of like a river. Ice can’t form when a river
is flowing, only when it stands still.
And it’s the same with letting blood clot.
So apply pressure and stop the flow. If there is something lodged in your
dog causing the bleeding, apply pressure around the object, and not directly
on it.
3. Be careful when bandaging.
Why?
Because if you do it wrong, it can actually harm your dog’s circulation.
(Ask your vet on how to do it properly).
Also, don’t let the bandage sit for more than an hour before changing.
Hopefully, by then you will have had a chance to get him to the vet or
animal hospital.
If not, make sure you change it regularly and often.
Otherwise if the bleeding doesn’t stop, and you haven’t changed the
bandage, you could see some swelling in his paws or legs.
For more information, ask your vet.
But if your dog should ever get seriously cut, the above steps will help you
control the bleeding while you seek out professional care.
Chapter 21
How to Almost Guarantee Your Dog Sits Still
When You Groom Her
One of the most interesting things I’ve ever seen was an acquaintance
grooming a very scared, very twitchy dog.
She was doing it as a favor for one of her friends whose dog is naturally
skittish and nervous around strangers.
And yet, even though she had never met this dog before, she had the dog
almost completely calmed down and still during the grooming process.
If you’ve ever tried grooming (or even brushing) a dog who is nervous and
skittish, then you know how unusual this is.
But she’s has been grooming dogs her whole life.
And she has picked up quite a few secrets on how to do it – no matter how
twitchy, nervous or skittish they are.
For example:
No matter what dog she is about to groom, whether it be a dog who already
knows her or one she has never met in her life, the first thing she does is let
the dog sniff the brush and comb.
Reason why is because it helps the dogs get comfortable with what she’s
about to groom them with. They usually start to smell and lick it, and come
closer.
And as she brushes the hair out, she keeps letting them sniff and smell so
they understand what she’s doing.
It’s sort of like walking up behind a horse.
If you come up behind a horse and don’t pat it on the behind and let it know
you’re there, they will kick because they don’t know what’s going on.
And it’s the same with dogs when it comes to grooming them.
Let them smell, sniff and even lick the brushes and combs so they can get
comfortable with what you’re doing.
That way they will realize you’re not trying to hurt them and be more at
ease.
Another thing you should do during the grooming is talk to your dog.
Let her know she’s a good dog in a positive, uplifting tone.
She likes to take the brush full of hair and let them see it and say things
like, “See? Gotta get all this hair off you...”
That may sound corny. But it helps the dog get a better idea of what you’re
doing.
Your voice coupled with them seeing what you’re doing and smelling the
hair you’ve brushed off goes a long way to calming your dog down and
putting her at ease.
Of course, the ideal way to make grooming pleasant for your dog is to begin
grooming her while she’s still young.
If you do that, you should have little or no problem with them being afraid
or sitting still.
However, if your dog is a bit older (and especially if he’s nervous and
skittish about your grooming him) then in addition to letting him sniff and
smell the tools and talking to him, you should try to keep the grooming
sessions really short.
Maybe five minutes or less.
And then each time increase the time by five minutes. This way you can get
him more used to the procedure.
And make sure you are 100% gentle.
Don’t be in a hurry and especially handle your dog’s more sensitive areas
(like tail, face, and feet) with care.
If you squeeze too hard or hurt him on accident in any way, all that work
you’ve done to break him in to being groomed is set back to the beginning.
But that shouldn’t be a problem if you are gentle, talk in a positive tone and
basically make it as comfortable and fun for your dog as possible. It also
won’t hurt to play some soft classical music (see chapter 4) while you’re at
it.
If you do all these things it will be just a matter of time before your dog not
only behaves and sits still, but looks forward to being groomed and actually
enjoys it.
Chapter 22
Quick and Easy Ways To Brush Your Dog’s Teeth
A few weeks ago I was talking with a friend of mine who had just gotten a
new dog.
My friend had wanted a dog for years but could never get one because he
lived in an apartment that wouldn’t allow it.
When I asked him how things were going he told me things were going
great. His new dog was the best thing that had ever happened to him.
Except for one thing.
“What is it?” I asked.
“His breath is hideous. I mean, it’s just terrible. It’s so bad sometimes I have
to push him away.”
“Well, have you ever brushed his teeth?” I asked.
“No. I thought all I had to do was give him milk bones. The box says they
help keep teeth clean.”
Long story short, I told him how if he wanted a dog that didn’t have bad
breath (as well as a whole host of other problems – like bacterial infections,
gingivitis, tooth loss, mouth abscesses and even heart disease and cancer)
he was going to have to start either taking his dog to a dog dentist, or learn
to do it himself.
Luckily, it’s not really that hard once you get the basics down.
First of all, make it easier on yourself (and the dog) by picking the right
time to do the deed.
Personally, I find the best time is after giving your dog a good, hard
workout so he’s tired, relaxed and calm.
Remember, a tired dog is a good dog.
This is especially important if you have a dog who is going to resist your
attempts at brushing.
And what you do is use a special dog toothbrush, some plain old gauze and
wrap it around your finger, or a “finger brush” (which is basically a rubber
cap that fits over your finger).
And all you do is gently lift his upper lip and brush his teeth like you would
your own – with the same circular motion you brush your teeth with.
Make sure you cover each tooth – one by one – until you’re done. And
make especially sure you get the back teeth, since they are most prone to
gingivitis.
This may seem like a lot of work. But it gets easier each time.
And if your dog is really resistant to your trying to brush his teeth, do like
we discussed with grooming in the last chapter, and start off with short
sessions.
Maybe brushing just one or two teeth at a time.
And then come back the next day and go for a few more. And then a few
more... until you get his whole mouth.
Again, it will get easier.
In fact, if you do it at least once per week (once per day is ideal) it will get
faster and easier for you both.
One final note:
Do not use human toothpaste.
They contain fluoride and other chemicals poisonous to dogs.
And since dogs won’t “rinse and spit”, they will end up swallowing it and
could get quite sick.
Instead, look around for a good dog toothpaste. You can find dog
toothpastes at just about any pet store.
If you need help picking the right brand, ask your vet.
Chapter 23
How to “Erase” Your Dog’s Tear Marks
Do you know what tear marks are?
Tear marks – or “tear stains” – are little tracks or marks left by tears and
other discharges (i.e. an eye infection) that trail down your dog’s face from
under her eyes.
These tears or discharges create an ideal breeding ground for bacteria and
yeast.
This not only looks pretty bad... but can also cause a bad odor, too.
And while your dog may not have this problem now, she could in the
future. If you ever plan to show your dog, then it’s vital she doesn’t have
this problem at all.
So what can you do about it?
First of all, you should know what causes tear marks.
If you can prevent them from coming on in the first place, you shouldn’t
have to worry about how to get rid of them.
And strange as it sounds, one big culprit of tear marks actually come from
your dog’s ears.
No joke.
It’s commonly believed that an ear infection can cause excessive tearing in
the eyes.
Another cause could be drinking water with a lot of minerals in it.
If you’ve ever lived in a home with water that has a lot of minerals or rust,
then you know how it can stain everything and anything.
And if your dog is lapping up this water, it can easily splash in her face and
cause staining.
Another thing that can cause tearing are allergies brought on by such things
as artificial food coloring, dyes, additives and preservatives.
Not keeping your dog’s eyes and coat clean can also cause tearing.
It never hurts to clean around your dog’s eyes. And by keeping his coat
clean, you reduce the chances of him rubbing his face in something that can
irritate his eyes.
And finally, the biggest tear staining culprit of them all is simple genetics.
Like it or not, fair or not, some dogs are more genetically predisposed to
getting tear marks. And if that is the case with your dog, then it is especially
important she eats and drinks the right foods and liquids and is groomed
regularly.
But, you ask, what if your dog already has tear marks? What then?
Don’t worry, my friend. All is not lost. Some options include:
Tear stain removal products.
Be sure to ask a reputable groomer supplier or vet for information on what
will be best for your dog and how to properly use it.
If you don’t use them correctly, you can actually hurt your dog.
Veterinary eye specialists.
This is probably the best option.
They should be the most up-to-date on the latest techniques and products
that work best. There are also certain surgical procedures they will know
about (such as if your dog has a blocked tear duct).
Home remedies.
Be careful with these.
And make sure you consult your vet before trying them.
But I have heard (never tried myself, though) that mixing a teaspoon of
white cider vinegar with water can help.
Another way I’ve heard works is mixing equal amounts of milk of
magnesia, corn starch and hydrogen peroxide to make a paste you can put
on your dog’s face and leave overnight. (You may have to put one of those
cone things around their neck so they can’t scratch at it.)
And then there’s a baking soda remedy where you mix half lemon and half
baking soda to make a paste you work into the hair. Then let sit for about 10
minutes before rinsing.
You can read more about these home remedies on the Internet or in any
good dog health book.
Whatever the case, make sure you consult an expert before doing any of the
above so you don’t accidentally do anything that harms your dog.
Chapter 24
How to Determine How Healthy Your Dog Is By
Looking At His Nose
Did you know it’s been estimated that a dog’s sense of smell is over 100
times stronger than a human being’s sense of smell?
Amazing, isn’t it?
The nose is as important to a dog as eyes are to us.
Which is why they sniff and smell everything. It’s how they identify and
distinguish objects, people and places.
But besides that, observing your dog’s nose is also one of the best ways to
detect and catch anything wrong with his health.
In fact, you can determine if your dog has a health problem – or the
beginnings of a health problem – by his nose alone.
Here’s how:
First of all, a dog’s nose should always be cool and wet.
Not dripping wet.
But moist.
If you see a clear discharge coming out of his nose there’s probably nothing
wrong.
But if it’s yellow (or any color), or if it’s thick or has a funky smell to it,
then you should get your dog checked out by a vet. It could be a serious
health problem.
If you notice your dog licking his nose excessively – as in almost all the
time – there could be a problem ranging anywhere from just needing to
clean his teeth to a more serious dental problem.
Try cleaning his teeth first.
If he still excessively licks his nose, get him checked out by his vet just to
be on the safe side.
If your dog’s nose is dry and kind of brittle looking, again, there could be a
problem.
That’s not to say a healthy dog’s nose never gets dry. But for the most part it
should always be cold and moist. Not dry and warm.
And if it is warm more often than not, check his temperature or take him to
see the vet.
It may be nothing.
But it could be signs of a more serious problem like distemper (a nasty viral
disease that can sometimes kill a dog) or a serious dermatological ailment.
Finally, if you have a dog with a light colored or pink nose (not black or
dark brown) he may be especially prone to getting skin cancer. Darker
noses can get it, too. But the lighter noses are more likely to.
This is not something that is widely talked about. But it does happen.
Especially if your dog is in the sun a lot.
Anyway, the important thing to remember is keep an eye on your dog’s
nose. Observe it every now and then and make sure it’s cool and moist.
It’s not a 100% way to tell if your dog is okay or not. But it does give you a
good indication.
Chapter 25
The Little-Talked About Health Hazards of Using
“Retractable Leashes”
Have you ever used one of those retractable leashes?
You know, the ones that extend up to 26 feet and let your dog have a little
more freedom and running room when you’re taking her for a walk?
I know I have.
They make it ten times easier to deal with a dog than a shorter leash –
where she’s constantly trying to tug and pull and go in every which
direction. (However, this has more to do with training the dog to obey, than
the leash.)
Even so, while all this may be true, there are some serious dangers (for both
you and your dog) to using these kinds of leashes.
In fact, if you know a doctor or nurse who spends a lot of time around a
hospital or emergency room, they may have seen some pretty serious
injuries as a result of using retractable leashes.
That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t use them necessarily.
I use them myself all the time when I walk dogs at the local dog shelter. (So
they can run more freely after being caged for hours at a time.)
And if you do, at least be aware of a few things.
First of all, if you use a retractable leash, be very careful if you are around a
lot of people and near a busy road.
Why?
Because dogs have a tendency to want to chase after things.
And if they see something they want to chase, and if you are walking him
near a street, he could bolt out far enough to get hit by a car.
Don’t think that can happen to you?
Well, maybe not.
But there have been documented cases where the “lock” in retractable
leashes malfunctioned and people who only intended to let their dog go five
or ten feet out, ended up going the full 25+ feet instead.
Plus, your dog may end up getting entangled on a bush, a tree or even
another person.
There have been cases, for example, where bikers have accidentally run into
a retracted leash causing serious injury.
So if you are going to use a retractable leash make sure you have your dog
in view and away from street, pedestrian and bicycle traffic.
But here’s the really freaky part:
Another danger these leashes sometimes pose is they can easily get
wrapped around your arm, leg, or hand and seriously burn you if your dog
gets excited.
Imagine having the leash wrapped around your forearm, for example, and
you stop to talk to someone or answer your cell phone, and your dog bolts
after something, causing the leash to let out.
You could suffer a painful burn or worse.
In fact, there was one case where a woman had her finger cut off by a
retractable leash!
Somehow the leash got wrapped around her finger and her dog bolted off
taking her finger with it.
So if you choose to use a retractable leash be careful.
Be aware of your surroundings and other people.
And whatever you do, do not wrap any part of the leash around one of your
body parts.
Chapter 26
The Most Dangerous Time of the Year for Dogs
Every Christmas, a former acquaintance tells me the story of her
Pomeranian pup (Beanie) when she was a kid.
Apparently, on that same week of Christmas when all the decorations and
food were still out, Beanie woke up earlier than everyone else and decided
to indulge in a little “Christmas cheer.”
She started on some of the paper decorations.
Ripping them up and tearing through everything like a little mini version of
the Tasmanian devil in the old “Bugs Bunny” cartoons. She mostly just
damaged the paper decorations. But she still managed to eat some of it, too.
When she got bored of that, she noticed an open wrapper on the floor.
Smelling something sweet, she tore into it and found an entire one pound
chocolate bar... and devoured almost half of it.
But she still wasn’t done.
No, like any self-respecting puppy, Beanie’s stomach was bottomless.
And when the shiny, “candy-like” Christmas tree bulb on the floor caught
her eye... well... she ate that, too.
Most of it anyway.
Luckily she woke up and saw the carnage – the almost-empty chocolate bar
wrapper and the mostly-eaten bulb Beanie was trying to polish off – and
immediately took her to the vet.
The vet examined Beanie and noticed there were no signs of chocolate
poisoning or any indication the bulb she ate tore into her stomach.
In the end, despite eating things that can potentially kill the average dog,
Beanie never got sick, and never had any problems other than a slight case
of diarrhea. (The vet said it was nothing short of a Christmas miracle.)
Okay, so why am I telling you this?
Because, while you probably already take precautions as far as keeping
food, ornaments and all the obvious dog dangers that lurk in the house
during Christmas season, there are a few things that are not so obvious.
Things that can not only severely injure your dog... but even kill him.
Take aluminum foil.
How much aluminum foil do you and your family use around the holidays?
I know we use quite a bit of it to wrap up food we’re going to bring to a
relative’s house.
And if you use foil, realize if it’s eaten in even small amounts, it can cut
your dog’s stomach and intestines. Sometimes it can even cause internal
bleeding that can lead to death.
All from a small piece of foil.
Same goes with plastic wrap.
You probably already know how easy it is for a dog to want to lick plastic
wrap with food on it. It’s just as easy for him to want to eat it as well.
(By the way, as a “side bar” to this, make sure you seal the bag tight when
you throw foil and plastic wrap in the garbage. A curious dog snout can find
it’s way into an open bag pretty easily.)
Another thing to watch out for (and this is where little Beanie really got
lucky) is electrocution.
How many wires, bulbs and other seasonal electrical toys do you have in
your house during the Christmas season?
If you’re like us, you have plenty. Not just bulbs and Christmas tree lights
with easy-to-chew-through wires, but also things like electric Santas or
snowmen and other decorations that are powered by electricity.
A curious dog can hurt themselves pretty badly if they sniff or bite the
wrong thing.
So it’s absolutely vital you keep any and all electric cords, toys and
decorations out of reach.
And then there’s hypothermia.
Most people can’t imagine leaving their dogs out in the snow to freeze to
death... just as nobody can see themselves locking their dog inside their car
in the sizzling heat (more about this later).
But it happens. Especially at Christmas time.
Why?
Because what is the first thing most people do when their dog comes in the
kitchen or dining room when everyone is eating?
The answer: They either lock them out of the room with a gate (the smart
thing to do), or let them outside.
This is all fine and good as long as you remember to bring her in.
But if you go from dinner to desert to opening presents, and the whole
process takes a couple hours, and if you accidentally forget she’s out there
(very common), your dog can suffer hypothermia. Especially if she has
short hair and a thin coat.
If you suspect your dog has been outside for too long – such as if she’s
shivering excessively, even after she’s been in long enough to warm up –
seek emergency care.
And speaking of outside:
Another common Christmas time danger is the chemicals and salt used to
melt snow.
A lot of dogs like to lick these chemicals up and they can be extremely
dangerous. So if you’re walking your dog outside don’t let her lick the
ground or even eat snow.
Even if it looks “clean.”
Because she could be smelling some of these chemicals and want to eat it.
And don’t forget to wipe off her footpads when you get home in case she
brought some of it in with her.
Anyway, those are a few little-talked about dog health hazards at Christmas.
Some others include fake snow (very poisonous to dogs), anything that has
glue or staples in it, and even fire place ash and debris.
There are actually a lot more. This is just a short list.
Just look around and see.
If there’s anything out you wouldn’t touch, bite, lick or eat yourself, then
put it out of your dog’s reach.
Because even if you wouldn’t do these things... chances are he will!
Chapter 27
The Hidden Dangers of Using “Choke” Chain
Collars
When I was younger, everyone was using choke chain collars.
After all, whenever your dog tried to pull away from you, it “choked” him
back, and could therefore be reasonably expected to “train” him not to try
again.
And yet, all through my teenage years, and all the dogs we had, I look back
and realize they never really worked.
I can’t think of one dog we had where using a choke chain collar stopped
them from trying to pull away.
Nowadays I know why.
They simply don’t work.
In fact, I’ve asked dog trainers about this and I have yet to find one who
will either endorse or use a choke chain collar (except for training
purposes). They are described as being both cruel, and totally ineffective.
They can actually hurt your dog and cause severe throat injuries, vertebrae
damage, organ problems, spinal cord injuries and even bad headaches.
Plus, as if that’s not bad enough, they can potentially make your dog
meaner and more aggressive.
Here’s how a dog trainer explained it to me recently:
Without getting too technical, dogs have the attention span of a really small
child.
It’s so short that, if you are walking your dog down the street with a choke
chain collar on, and he pulls away and you tug back and cause him pain, he
has already forgotten the “reason” why you pulled him back, and is now
associating that pain with whatever he is focusing on.
In other words, if he is focusing on the mailman, then he is going to
associate that pain with the mailman.
If he sees a kid playing on a swing set, he is going to associate that pain
with the kid on the swing set.
If he sees a cat, then he will associate that pain with a cat.
And so on and so forth.
And the danger in this comes if your dog starts developing aggression and
fear towards those things he just associated the pain with.
Every time you pull on that chain and cause him pain it’s possible he will
start feeling a sort of anger towards whatever it is he is focusing on at the
time you caused the pain.
This is one of the biggest “unseen” dangers of choke chain collars.
Not only are you hurting your dog and potentially causing him a great deal
of pain and future health problems, but you are actually shaping his
attitudes negatively towards random people, objects and animals every time
you use it.
One last thing.
Maybe you have a dog that’s particularly good at slipping out of a regular
collar. Or is hard to control. And you need some way to walk her so she
doesn’t slip away.
In that case, consider getting a harness.
Or, there are also collars available that are great for controlling dogs
without necessarily choking them.
Just check with your local pet store and see what you find.
Chapter 28
Two Common Places You Must Never Let Your
Dog Touch, Sniff, or Lick
I’ll never forget it.
My stomach dropped like a bowling wall when I saw it and I’m extremely
thankful nothing bad came of it.
I’m talking about the time I was watching my neighbor’s dog several years
ago.
It was summer time, a nice sunny day, and I was out with the neighbor’s
dog in the front yard.
They had a fence up so I was letting him run around free while I sat in the
shade talking on the cordless phone.
Normally the neighbor’s dog was kind of slow and liked to lay around. And
so I was not in the mindset of never taking my eyes off him.
Anyway, even back then, before I started learning about dogs, I knew there
were a lot of different (and dangerous) chemicals on the average driveway.
And so when I saw him licking the driveway I freaked out.
Luckily, nothing bad happened to him. And he was only licking up some
spilled soda pop I had dropped earlier.
But the fact is, the most dangerous thing in your driveway – besides a
moving car – to your dog are the chemicals left by your car.
Substances like oil, grease, gasoline and especially antifreeze. (Like
ethylene glycol-based anti-freeze, for example – which actually has a sweet
taste dogs are attracted to.)
All of these things are extremely toxic and poisonous to dogs.
If they ingest enough of these poisons they can get very sick and even die.
And this goes for anywhere you take your dog.
Don’t let him lick anything off the sidewalk, the street, a bike trail or even
grass.
Why?
For the same reason.
You just never know what someone has dropped, spilled or sprayed. Not
just drainage from cars, but pesticides, insecticides and other poisons as
well.
Unfortunately, dogs don’t always have an instinct for what’s poison and
what’s not.
In many cases they will sniff, lick and eat just about anything – including
toxic chemicals.
Chapter 29
How To Teach Your Dog How To Read?
Did you know you can teach your dog how to read?
When a friend of mine told me he saw dogs can be taught to read in the
National Enquirer I thought he was crazy. Just not possible. Dog’s can’t
read. That’s gotta be typical tabloid hype.
But my curiosity got to me and I found myself going to the supermarket
checkout line and picking up a copy of the June 26, 2006 issue of the
National Enquirer just to see for myself.
I flipped to page 31 and there it was – an article titled, “See Spot Read!”
Within a minute or two of reading the article it became obvious this wasn’t
some hoax or false claim. It really is possible to teach your dog how to read.
Veteran dog trainer and the president of the Assistance Dog Institute in
Santa Rosa, CA, Dr. Bonnie Bergin, really has figured out how to teach
dogs to read. She has even written a book on it and has been on numerous
talk shows and media outlets.
Now, you may be wondering how is this possible?
Well, let’s say you want your dog to read the word “sit.”
From what I understand (I encourage you to get Dr. Bergin’s book for a
detailed explanation) all you have to do is print a word describing the thing
you want your dog to do (i.e. “sit”).
Then, hold the card out of view (while your dog is not sitting, obviously),
show your dog the card that has the word “sit” on it, make sure he sees it,
and then say “sit.”
When the dog obeys, give him lots of praise and pets and hugs. Maybe even
give him a treat.
Then, keep doing this at least three or four times.
After that, just show him the card without giving the command. At that
point, he should sit without you having to say it!
According to Dr. Bergin, most dogs learn how to “read” the word by the
third try. And you can then go on to other words and commands.
Pretty amazing isn’t it?
There are lots of practical uses for teaching your dog to read. Not just for
the blind and disabled, but for everyone else, too (such as keeping dogs off
furniture, out of food, etc.)
Again, if you really want to master this, and get all the specifics on how to
make this work, get your hands on Dr. Bergin’s book, “Teach Your Dog to
Read.”
As of today, it’s less than $10 online. And she goes into great detail on how
to make the process go quickly and smoothly.
Chapter 30
Why Chaining Your Dog Up Makes Him More
Dangerous To Your Neighborhood Than If He’s
Running Loose
Ever wonder why in the movies, on TV and even in “real life”, the mean,
snarling, vicious dogs are always tethered or chained up outside?
I used to think they were chained or tethered because they were naturally
mean dogs and the owners didn’t want them running loose. Not even in the
back yard.
But it’s the exact opposite.
In other words, mean dogs are not chained up because they are mean.
They are mean because they are chained up.
Now setting aside for the moment the physical dangers posed to a dog who
is chained or tethered (such as if your dog tangles himself to the point of
injury, is attacked by insects or other animals, stolen by some scum bag
who wants to sell him to people who put on organized dog fights, etc.), the
other serious danger is what this does psychologically to your dog.
Here is how a friend of mine who works with dogs explained it to me:
Dogs chained or confined to a limited area often become very aggravated
and aggressive (can you blame them?)
They also are put in a situation where they have nowhere to run if they
sense any kind of danger or fear – and therefore may resort to biting or
attacking anyone or anything who comes into their “space.”
For example:
Let’s say you have your dog chained up outside. His chain is about 25 feet
or so. He has nowhere to go and is limited to that 25 feet.
Well, if a child or a person or another animal comes into range, and if your
dog perceives that child, person or animal as a threat to him or his space, he
may respond aggressively.
He may try to attack or bite (or worse) whoever it is.
It’s not that the dog is necessarily “mean”. He is just doing what comes
naturally as a result of his inborn “fight or flight” instinct.
And it can even get worse if your dog ends up getting away.
Why?
Because he may also be more likely to chase down those people or things
that caused him to be afraid in the first place.
So if you are chaining or tethering your dog, please reconsider.
Not only are you potentially putting your dog in physical danger, but you
are also putting him in a position where he could become a danger to you,
your kids, other animals and anyone else who comes near him.
Chapter 31
Why Bribing Your Dog Almost Guarantees He
Will Make Your Life a Living Hell
I think most people would agree hitting or using force to train a dog doesn’t
really work.
That all it’s going to do is give you an aggressive dog who is more likely to
hurt you or someone else in the right circumstances.
However, what’s not as widely understood is that training your dog with
“bribes” is almost as bad.
Why do I say this?
Two reasons:
First of all, bribing dogs with treats when training actually makes dogs
more aggressive and actually encourages dominant behavior – where they
think they are the boss and you are the “pet.”
And secondly, it’s just common sense.
I mean, think about it:
If you want to train a dog to sit, do you really only want him to sit (or do
any other command) because you offered him some food first?
If that’s the case, you’ll never get him to do anything unless you bribe him.
And it doesn’t take a brain surgeon to realize if you do this, your dog will
never really be obedient.
He will never really respect you as the “top dog” in the household.
And he will actually develop an attitude that he is the top dog, and you ain’t
gonna get him to so much as sit when you tell him to unless you have a
tasty milk bone or some other treat in your hand.
Now, just so we are clear here, not bribing your dog does not mean you
can’t give him a reward.
Rewards are fine and I’m all for them. I love giving my dog a reward for
doing something.
But rewards are not bribes.
What’s the difference?
Well, this may be oversimplifying things a bit, but think of it this way:
A reward is calling Rover over to you, he comes, you say, “Speak!” and he
lets out a bark, and you give him a treat and a pat on the head.
A bribe, on the other hand, is where you get up and go to Rover (instead of
him coming to you), buy his attention with a treat in your hand, and then
ask him to speak.
See the difference?
A treat rewards your dog for his good behavior... while a bribe rewards your
dog for your good behavior.
In other words, Rover is really in “control” and you aren’t... and he knows
it.
All the bribing actually whittles away any respect he has for you (and other
people) and sets the stage for a pushy and aggressive dog who is a danger to
others.
Keep the difference between bribing and rewarding in mind when you are
training your dog.
It will both make your life easier and your dog a lot more obedient.
Chapter 32
How to Pay Little or Nothing For Your Dog’s Vet
Bills and Medications
If you want to know some quick and easy ways to save a pile of money on
your dog’s vet bills and medications, then this report will show you how.
Listen, recently, one of my brother’s dogs passed away.
And while the loss was extremely tragic (losing a dog always sucks), the
mountain of vet bills he had to pay was no picnic either.
You see, first my brother’s dog got violently sick.
Then he paid a couple thousand dollars to the animal doctors to get her
fixed up.
Finally, just when it looked like things couldn’t get any worse, his dog died
anyway.
All of which got me thinking.
What are some ways to get around paying sky-high vet bills?
It seems they get higher every year... with no end in sight.
The conventional advice is to do such things as put the bills on a credit
card, ask your family members to give you a loan, pawn your TV or some
other high ticket possession, get a part time job, etc.
These aren’t necessarily bad ideas. And they can work in a pinch.
But in this chapter I want to give you 12 additional ways to lower your vet
bills and medication costs that perhaps you haven’t heard about.
Ways that are just as easy (even easier) than the ideas above.
Ways that can save you hundreds – maybe even thousands – of dollars per
year and take the sting out of those bills.
Ready?
Okay then, here we go...
1. Ask For a Discount.
Hey, this may sound simple (and it is), but vets are not all that much
different than most doctors.
My mother is a nurse, and she has told me how a lot of doctors are more
than willing to negotiate lower fees if you pay cash.
Turns out it’s no different for a lot of vets.
In fact, my brother realized (too late, unfortunately) he could have
negotiated a lower vet fee and saved hundreds of dollars... if he’d simply
asked.
This should not be a problem if you are a “regular” or have proven that you
will be coming back again and again in the future for other routine services.
Now, I am not saying this will be the case with all vets and in all
circumstances.
But there are vets who are understanding to the average person’s financial
concerns who will work a deal with you.
If not on the overall fees, then certainly with working out a manageable
payment plan.
In other words, maybe instead of paying $200 up front, see if you can do 10
payments of $20 – which is much more manageable.
Whatever the case, it doesn’t cost anything to ask.
And if your vet says no?
No problem. There are plenty to choose from. Just check around and the
chances are you will find one who will say yes.
2. Local Colleges
Another way to save money on your vet bills is by contacting local colleges
and universities in your area.
What will this do?
Maybe a lot.
Because, you see, a lot of these schools have veterinary programs.
And sometimes they will be willing to help you out (as education for their
students) at a reduced cost and possibly even free.
And don’t worry.
These students are totally supervised (you might want to make sure and ask
anyway – just to be sure). And they are dedicated, serious and eager to gain
the experience in diagnosing and treating dogs and other pets.
Again, all you have to do is ask your local colleges and universities.
Depending on where you live and what programs are available, you may be
pleasantly surprised at the deals you can get.
3. Local Dog Shelters and Rescue Groups
Sometimes, especially if it’s an emergency situation, your local dog and
animal shelters/rescue groups may offer low-cost or free services.
It all depends on the place you go and what their budget is.
And even if they can’t help you, there’s a good chance they can point you to
someone who can.
4. eBay
This one is so simple and easy, it’s amazing more people don’t do it.
Believe it or not, you can get a lot of pet medications on eBay for as much
as 50% off.
Just check around on the site and see what you find.
You won’t find prescription medications there (it is against eBay policy).
But you will find many other medications for everything from flea control
to ear infection medicine to diabetes control supplements and a whole lot
more.
Plus, not only can you find cheap medications, but also dog toys, cages,
leashes and other related things your dog needs for way less than your local
pet shot.
5. National Club for Your Dog’s Breed
According to the Humane Society’s website (www.hsus.org):
“If you have a specific breed of dog, contact the National Club for that
breed. In some cases, these clubs offer a veterinary financial assistance
fund.”
Again, it’s simple, and surprising it’s not talked about more.
Obviously, this probably won’t do you much good if your dog is not a
specific breed.
But who knows?
If nothing else, they may be able to refer you to someone who can help you.
6. Internet
Comb the search engines and you may be surprised by what you find.
Another great source of free information are forums where dog owners chat
and exchange information.
These forums are a gold mine of information.
Why?
Because they are the Internet equivalent of a dog owner “convention” –
where you will find dozens (even hundreds) of people just like you. People
who have probably had the same challenges and problems with their
veterinarian care.
And there is almost always a few people on these forums who can help you
out, no matter what your question is.
Some good forums to start with are:
www.chazhound.com/forums
www.forum.dog.com/asp
www.i-love-dogs.com/forums
And many, many more.
Just go to any search engine on the Internet and type in the words “dog
forums” and you’ll find mountains of information on whatever subject you
want – including how to find low cost veterinarian care.
7. Read Labels
This one may seem obvious, but few of us ever do it (and end up wasting a
lot of money).
Believe it or not, sometimes manufacturers recommend giving your dog a
medication more often than they need it.
It’s sort of like oil changes. With some of the newer synthetic oil, you can
go 5,000 miles or more without getting an oil change. Yet, they still tell you
to change your oil every 3,000 miles.
Why?
Because they get more of your money that way.
And it’s the same with some pet medications.
Manufacturers sometimes say their medication is effective for at least 45
days, despite recommending 30 day use.
If you suspect this is the case with your dog’s situation, ask your vet. They
can tell you exactly how often to give your dog a particular medication.
And if you find you are giving him medication too often, you can save a
significant amount of money on those medications each year.
8. Pro Bono Work
Do you own a business?
Do you have a skill you can “trade” with your vet for the cost of the bill, or
a portion of it?
Think about what you can offer as a trade for vet services.
I don’t know if this is true or not, but I once heard a story of a person who
was so broke, he offered to mow his vet’s lawn for an entire year in
exchange for his dog’s surgery (which came out to about $1,000).
Obviously, that’s pretty drastic.
But if you offer a product or service that can be of value to your vet, it
doesn’t hurt to try a trade.
If all else fails, ask your vet if he’d like a professionally written ad for his
business, and hand him the ad on the next page (it can easily be adapted to
any veterinarian practice).
Copyright Free Pro Bono Vet Ad:
Dear Bob Jones,
My name is Joe Veterinarian and I am writing to offer you a free dog health
checkup for your dog at my office at (address).
This dog health checkup normally costs (price of routine health checkup)
but I want to give it to you 100% free. With no obligation and nothing you
have to buy.
Why am I doing this? Two reasons:
1. Like you, I love dogs and realize how expensive getting even a routine
veterinarian checkup can be.
2. I hope that after you see my work, you will consider my services in the
future if your dog ever needs veterinary care.
This free health checkup includes:
(Put here a bulleted list of basic routine exam procedures performed)
The entire exam will take just (amount of time it takes) and, if you make
your appointment before (December 15), you also get a 30-day supply of
(supplement you sell), a (price of supplement) value, absolutely free of
charge.
Again, there is no obligation to buy anything and you won’t pay a penny for
your dog’s health checkup or the bottle of (supplement).
The only “catch” is you must make your free dog health checkup
appointment by (5:00 P.M. Saturday, December 15.) Just call (555-5555555) and one of my friendly staff members will make your appointment.
Sincerely,
Joe Veterinarian.
P.S. If I don’t hear from you by (5:00 P.M Saturday, December 15), I
reserve the right to give your free dog health checkup and 30-day supply of
(supplement) to someone else. Thank you.
As a professional direct response copywriter, I charge over $1,000 for an ad
like this.
This is probably the only time in your life you buy an inexpensive book and
find
$1,000 inside it!
All you do is “fill in the blanks” (the bold parts) with your vet’s info, and
tell him to mail it to a list of local dog owners or inactive previous
customers.
Tell him you know a professional copywriter and I wrote it for you as a
favor (all of which is true) worth $1,000, and he can have it in exchange for
his services on your dog.
Also, tell your vet this letter is designed to:
• Build a mailing list of customers he can mail offers and incentives to
and...
• Get people in the door to try both his services and sell a consumable
product people will reorder in the future.
9. Online Vet Pharmacies
It’s no mystery that drug expenses for a dog can add up fast.
In fact, my brother was told that, had his dog lived, he would have been
paying a few hundred dollars per month for the medicine!
But there may come a time where your dog really needs conventional drugs,
and one of the best and cheapest ways to get them is online pet pharmacies.
Why?
Because they are usually up to 40% cheaper than what the average vet will
charge for the exact same thing.
In fact, one person I know of – who has a dog riddled with health problems,
and is on multiple prescription drugs – basically asks for two prescriptions:
The first one for a couple week’s worth of medicine. And then the second
one is for the remaining time.
That way he gets the 2-week supply from his vet to get started, then gets the
second one filled online.
In the end, he saves a lot of money each year.
The good news is, online pet pharmacies abound right now.
All you have to do is ask around in Internet forums or meet other pet
owners and ask them what they use.
Or, just go to the search engines and type in “pet pharmacy” and start
comparing prices.
10. Become a “Blood Donor”
This is probably the best way to save on vet bills ever.
Why?
Because believe it or not... this simple secret can make it so you almost
never have to pay for vet services again.
At least not the “routine” ones you do each year.
How can you do this?
It’s easy:
Simply volunteer your dog to be a blood donor!
You’ve already seen blood drives for people.
Now you can also see blood drives for dogs, too.
And these blood drives could save you a pile of money each year for the
rest of your dog’s life.
Here’s how they work:
First of all, you need to find a regional dog blood donor program.
This is new still, so you may have to check around the Internet or ask your
vet.
If your dog meets the requirements... and if you’re willing to commit to
several months (or even years) at a time... then you may be eligible
(depending on the organization) for all kinds of free and discounted services
for as long as you’re in the program.
Services like blood tests, vaccinations, and heartworm preventatives.
And don’t worry.
Giving blood won’t cause your dog a lot of pain or anything like that.
In fact, your dog is given all the treats he can handle to replenish his
strength afterwards.
Anyway, if you want to save money on vet bills then this is definitely worth
looking in to.
Frankly, you may never have to pay for routine vet services ever again.
11. Ditch The “Dog” Medications
Make sure you consult with your vet before doing this – but sometimes
expensive “dog” medications aren’t even the answer to your dog’s medical
problems.
Let me give you an example.
About 5 years ago my mom’s dog, Kasha, was hit by a car.
One minute she was in the front yard hanging out with my mom.
The next minute, the neighbor’s cat (Kasha’s “nemesis”) bolted out into the
street.
Kasha pursued and hit the street just in time to meet the front end of an
oncoming car.
Thank God Kasha survived.
But now, several years later, Kasha has a lot of pain in her hip where she
was hit.
You could see it when she tried to get up or run too fast.
But that changed recently when the vet suggested my mom give Kasha
Glucosamine – which is not only inexpensive... but gives tremendous relief
to Kasha’s joints and other pains.
What does this mean for your dog?
Two things:
First of all, if your dog has joint or bone pain... ask your vet if it’d be okay
to give her Glucosamine.
It works like a charm.
In fact, my mom took Kasha off Glucosamine for a few weeks once and
immediately noticed Kasha having more trouble getting up and around (and
has since put her back on).
And secondly, sometimes “human” medications work wonders for dogs.
Not just Glucosamine, either. Even something as simple (and cheap) as
children’s aspirin can help “pain-proof” your dog.
I know one guy whose Doberman’s joints were so messed up the vet said he
needed surgery.
Instead of surgery, this guy put his dog on a special kind of fish oil for a few
months.
The result?
Next time he took his Doberman in for a check-up, the vet said his joints
were fine – no surgery required!
Just remember, (and I can’t stress this enough) always check with your vet
before giving your dog any medication – no matter how “innocent.”
What works on one dog could actually be dangerous to another.
Each breed, size and pedigree reacts to medications in different ways.
But if you want to save money on pet medications... and help your dog
become pain-free... definitely ask your vet about using over-the-counter
human medications.
Not only will they many times save you money... but they can also do far
more good for your dog than other pet medications.
12. Use This Secret “Crack” In the Economic System
Finally, the last (and certainly the most “unorthodox”) way to save a bundle
on your vet bills (and just about anything else you buy for yourself and your
family), is to use the barter industry.
If you’ve never heard of the barter or “trade” industry, here is how it works:
Barter exchanges can be found all over the world.
And they are buying clubs where people and businesses join and buy from
each other using not regular government circulated money, but currency
good only in that particular exchange.
It’s sort of like a big game of Monopoly.
You can buy and sell things with Monopoly money within the game, but
outside the game it is worthless.
And that’s basically how barter exchanges work.
They have their own “currency”, good only with the businesses in a
particular barter company.
You can find just about any business you can think of in these exchanges –
including vets.
And these vets will accept “barter dollars” like they’d accept cash.
Now, without getting too technical (I will show you where to get more
information on this in a second), most people in these barter exchanges end
up with excess barter cash.
They actually earn so much they can’t spend it.
It’s not as easy to spend as regular U.S. dollars.
And what you do is find these businesses with excess trade money, and
offer to buy those “barter dollars” for real money at a huge discount.
In other words, you find a business owner with $500 of “trade” money who
needs to get rid of it.
He can’t spend it all.
And it’s just sitting there in his barter account.
In fact, he will even have to pay taxes on this money at the end of the year
if he doesn’t get rid of it.
Then you come along and say, “hey, how about I give you $75 in real cash,
for that $500 of trade money you aren’t doing anything with?”
He agrees (many people will) and now you can take that $500 of trade
money to pay your vet bills with.
In this case, you got $500 worth of services done for just $75.
Anyway, that’s about it.
The above are some ways to save money on your dog’s vet bills and
medications that have been proven to work time and time and time again.
Try them yourself.
You have nothing to lose, and a whole lot of money to save!
Chapter 33
How to “Hire” Your Dog and Make a Pile of
Money in Your Business
If you own a business, this chapter will hopefully open you up to some new
possibilities and maybe even put a lot of money in your pocket.
And if you don’t own a business, you might in the future and the following
information may help you then.
Anyway, have you ever heard of Honey the “Money Dog”?
Honey is a Cocker Spaniel who “works” at a now famous gas station (AllAmerican Fireworks in Hardeeville, South Carolina).
What Honey does is greets customers when they come in.
And then, when you go to pay for your purchases, Honey will take your
money for you, run around to the cash register, and give the money to the
cashier.
Or if you are simply stopping by to get gas, Honey runs out to your pump,
takes your money and takes it to the cashier for you.
Okay, so what?
Well, this little dog is actually a nationwide phenomenon. People come
from all over the country to see this dog and be waited on like this.
She’s been written up in the press and has brought a lot of business to this
gas station. Business that never would have found its way there had Honey
not been “working the beat.”
But Honey’s not the only dog who works like this.
There are a few other smart businesses who employ their dogs.
Such as the Fairmont Copley Plaza in Boston, Massachusetts.
This hotel has also become a hot spot for tourists all over the world, and is
often booked solid three months in advance.
Why?
Because people want to meet and see the hotel’s resident “canine
ambassador”, Catie.
What does Catie do?
Well, for one thing, she greets the guests when they come in.
But, even more important than that, she is in charge of sending “care
packages” to the other dogs staying at the hotel.
She even has her own business cards and an email address!
And due to the enormous free publicity she’s generated, people come from
all over to stay there. Not just tourists, either. But also Hollywood actors
and celebrities.
Everyone wants to meet Catie which has made the hotel ultra successful.
And you know what?
If you can think of a way to “work” your dog into your business, enormous
publicity opportunities spring up automatically.
Why do I say this?
Because I have studied and used publicity and can assure you the media
loves telling stories like this.
These stories are interesting, fun, and they make the newspaper, radio
station or TV station look good.
So how can you “employ” your dog in your business?
Just look at how other businesses (like the ones above) have done this sort
of thing.
I bet if you brainstorm long enough the answer will come.
And when it does you have nothing to lose by trying it and letting the media
know about it.
Chapter 34
How to Quickly and Easily Train Your Dog Not to
Fear Fireworks, Thunder, and Other Loud Noises
When we got Garry (the farting bull terrier) we had a “crisis” a few months
later.
You see, Garry did not take too well to fireworks. And when they were
going off on the 4th of July that year, we noticed Garry was nowhere to be
found.
We checked all the rooms in the house and even went outside to look for
him (thinking he must have gotten away).
But it turned out he had not run away. And he was not necessarily hiding.
No, he was down in the basement, standing in the corner shaking.
We didn’t realize it at the time, but loud fireworks (like you hear on July
4th) can be like torture for dogs. Not only because they are loud, scary
noises... but because dogs’ ears are so sensitive.
So what can you do about this?
Well, until they come up with a pair of doggy ear plugs that won’t fall out
or irritate your dog to no ends, try one of these three techniques:
1. A laser pointer.
You know what I mean, right?
Those annoying red laser pointers (they cost about a dollar) people get in
trouble using in movie theaters or when they point them at airplanes.
I was reading a newsletter by a man named Paul Hartunian
(www.auntmarysdoghouse.com - a great dog rescue to donate to, by the
way) who was having this same problem with his dogs.
And what he did was use one of those cheap laser pointers to distract the
dogs while the fireworks were going on.
Reason it worked is because, with many dogs, once you get that pointer
going, they will want to chase it all over the place and you’ll both have a
ball. They will ignore the crashing sounds and care only about catching that
ever-elusive red dot.
And don’t worry. They are completely safe.
You obviously never want to point them at someone’s face (or any animal’s
face). But I have yet to hear of any dog eyes being injured by these pointers.
If you are unsure, ask your vet.
But from what I can tell, they are completely safe. In fact, they work so
well you can sometimes even find them in pet stores!
2. Gradually desensitize your dog to the sounds of loud fireworks.
How do you do that?
It’s easy. Simply find a video or sound recording of loud fireworks or
thunder and play it for your dog real low.
Then, gradually turn up the sound a little each time over a period of several
days. By the time you get it cranked up to the maximum, where it’s really
loud, your dog will be a lot more comfortable with it. Maybe not even
bothered by it at all.
3. If all else fails...
If neither the laser pointer or gradually getting your dog used to the sounds
don’t work, you can always ask your vet about some kind of calming
medication.
I can’t say I’m a big fan of this. But it can work as a last resort.
And it may be better than watching your dog shiver in fear in the corner of
the basement.
Chapter 35
How to Protect Your Dog from “Dog-Nappers”
I have a friend with a Pit Bull who never takes his eyes off him.
I once asked him why, especially since he has a fenced yard.
“That’s easy. Pit Bulls are one of the most stolen dogs in the world. And
even though I’m in a nice, cozy neighborhood, with a fence around the
yard, I ain’t taking no chances.”
“One of the most stolen?” I asked. I thought they were easily the most
stolen animals. We all know how they are frequently stolen for use in dog
fighting.
“They are still the most stolen dogs, but it’s not just Pit Bulls anymore.
These days, anyone with a dog, whether it’s a purebred or a mutt, should
just assume someone is going to try and steal their dog.”
At first, I thought that strange.
But then I looked into it a little more and found he was right.
If you own a dog, you need to watch him like a hawk.
There’s a frighteningly good chance someone else is watching him already.
Why do I say this?
Because while there is still a market for stolen Pit Bulls, there are other
markets as well.
For example, dog thieves can make a small fortune stealing puppies (many
times right out from under your nose) and selling them to puppy mills –
which are terrible dog breeding shacks, where puppies are kept in cramped,
miserable conditions (many actually die), and then sold to shady pet shops
at a profit.
And if the puppy mill scum bags don’t try to steal your dog, it could be
some of the more unscrupulous medical testing labs.
Think about it:
There are quite a few dog “animal research” and testing laboratories – like
universities, pharmaceutical companies and other companies that test their
products on animals before humans.
I’m not saying they are all paying people to steal dogs. I’m sure the vast
majority don’t. And some companies have recently stopped animal testing
altogether.
But there are still enough to have made this a worldwide problem. And it’s
much easier to steal and handle a domesticated dog that behaves than a feral
animal in the wild.
Plus, it’s easy for these organizations to recruit drug addicts and other
people desperate for money to go and do all the “dirty work” for them.
And as my friend told me, many times these dogs are stolen right out from
under our noses.
There have been cases of people walking right into other people’s yards (or
even their houses) and stealing dogs and puppies. There have also been
cases where dogs were stolen from idling cars while their owners ran into
the store for a few minutes.
It happens all the time. If you don’t think it can happen to you, then you’re
sadly mistaken.
And the worst part of all is, once they are stolen, they are almost impossible
to find.
So what can you do to make sure this doesn’t happen to your dog?
For starters, consider having a microchip put in your dog. I know that’s not
always popular. But if your dog is lost, there’d be no problem identifying
him if he’s chipped.
You can also have his DNA registered.
This is another great way to make sure you can identify your dog. If he gets
lost or impounded, or shows up at some flea market somewhere, you can
prove his identity. The American Kennel Club can help you with this if
you’re interested.
You can also make it easier to identify your dog if you take pictures and put
them in a safe place with his pedigree papers.
And if you really want to be able to identify your dog beyond a shadow of a
doubt, get your dog’s nose print on file.
Seriously.
They can now identify your dog by his nose the same way they can identify
you and me by our fingerprints. It’s not widely talked about. But breeders
and trainers will many times keep a dog’s nose prints on file. And if you get
your dog bonded, most insurance companies will actually require it.
Finally, the best defense against dog theft is simply keeping your dog in a
secured location.
I know that’s not sexy. But it’s like preventing a disease: The best way to
beat it is to prevent it from coming in the first place. And it’s the same with
protecting your dog from thieves.
Just use some common sense and you should be fine.
For example:
Make sure your gate is padlocked if your dog is out by himself in the yard.
Keep tabs on suspicious looking people in your area. Don’t leave your dog
in the car by himself. Keep abreast of any dog kidnappings in your
neighborhood or city. And basically, never take your eyes off your dog if
he’s in plain sight.
If you are selling puppies, don’t advertise your address or home phone
number in the ad publicly. I read one story where a man did this and a few
days later someone walked right into his house and stole a bunch of his
puppies!
There’s nothing wrong with selling puppies. But don’t give any personal
information in the ad. Some thieves scan these ads for potential victims.
Put your cell phone in there instead. Or get a free Internet voice mail (such
as the ones from voice.google.com).
That way nobody will know where you live. You control when someone
sees your puppies, and who sees them.
Anyway, I don’t want to make you paranoid.
But this business of stealing dogs is a real and growing problem.
And everyone who owns a dog should be aware of it.
Chapter 36
A “Secret” Place to Take a Good, Healthy Dog
You Can’t Keep... Besides a Shelter or Pound
When we had to sell our Dalmatian Frantzee (the cake-eating dog who was
basically my best friend at the time), it devastated me.
Not just because I really loved that dog, but because I don’t know what ever
happened to him. We had to sell him to a man who my mother insists was a
good guy.
But you never can tell. And I will probably always wonder exactly what
became of him.
Why am I telling you this?
Because whether due to location reasons, financial reasons or any other
kind of reason, sometimes we have to give away or sell our dog.
It sucks when it happens. But it’s a reality of life.
And the big question when this happens is, who do you give or sell him to?
If you’re lucky, you will have a friend or family member take him.
But if you’re not so lucky you will have to ask yourself who to give him to.
Do you sell him to a stranger by placing an ad in the newspaper? Do you
take him to a no-kill animal shelter? What do you do?
And while I wish I could give you the ideal answer, I can’t. It all depends
on where you live and what your local situation is.
But, before you do anything you may regret later, there is one thing you can
at least try.
And that is seek out special charities and organizations who need dogs.
For example, there is a charity in the UK called “Hearing Dogs For Deaf
People.”
And they recently advertised how they are looking for young adult dogs
which are trainable for helping the deaf.
Another one would be an organization like the “Search Dog Foundation”
which is always looking for good dogs that can be turned into search and
rescue dogs. You can read more about them at:
www.searchdogfoundation.org
I don’t know about you, but if I needed to give away my dog, I would try to
get him in a place like this first.
Assuming it’s a good organization, you can’t lose.
You get to give your dog to a person who really needs his help. And your
dog gets to go and be with someone likely to love and care for him.
It’s a true “win-win” for everyone.
Just look around and see what you can find.
You may be surprised how many good, reputable organizations might be
willing to take your dog and give him an exciting and fun life.
Chapter 37
What to Do If Your Dog Is Sick From Being in the
Heat Too Long
Every summer it’s the same thing.
News story after news story after news story about the guy or gal who
locked their dog in the hot car and killed him.
Such stories are enough to make anyone who owns a pet want to punch a
wall.
I don’t know about you, but the thought of a dog slowly cooking in a hot
car (cars can get up to 169 degrees or hotter!) while their owner chit-chats
away in the store, on their cell phone makes me sick. In fact, if everyone
simply turned off their cell phones when their dog is in the car you’d see a
lot less of this problem.
It’s not just cars, either.
Leaving your dog out in the sun for prolonged periods of time can also
overheat a dog to the point of death.
In fact, a few years back my wife and I were at a golf range that was next to
a dog kennel. It was a hot, humid day – well in the upper 90’s or even lower
100’s.
When we got there we noticed a bunch of dogs were outside.
We were out there for about a half hour and we were drenched with sweat.
When we left we noticed the dogs in the kennel next door were still outside
in the heat. They were barking and you could see them panting.
It was terrible.
She went in there and complained and they were brought in.
So it’s not just cars that kill dogs, it can also happen if they are left out in
the hot sun without water.
And there could come a time where you see a dog – whether yours or
someone else’s – suffering from being overheated.
Maybe you see the dog in a car. Maybe you see the dog tied up outside in
the hot sun.
Whatever the case, the real question isn’t where the owner is, but what can
you do to save the dog’s life?
Here are a few ways to cool down an overheated dog:
Let him lick ice cubes.
This is pretty simple, but it works.
An overheated dog will usually be panting heavily and probably vomiting,
too. Ice cubes help them get much needed relief without them drinking
water too quickly.
Put an ice pack or cold towel on his head, neck and chest.
Applying ice in those exact spots will help lower the dog’s body
temperature faster.
Spray the dog down with a hose.
Many animal control officers will do this if they see a dog suffering from
being overheated.
Call 911.
If it’s someone else’s dog you see suffering from being overheated, call 911
immediately. Don’t worry about what the dog’s owner will say or think.
The heck with them. If the dog is suffering, something needs to be done.
Anyway, if your dog or someone else’s dog is overheated, consider the
steps above.
A dog can have all kinds of health problems if they get overheated –
including severe kidney problems. So not only will you be potentially
saving the dog’s life, but you may be saving him from painful health
problems later on.
Chapter 38
How to “Snuff Out” Dog Allergies... Without
Drugs, Steroids or Other Potentially Harmful
Chemicals
If your dog has allergies then you know it ain’t pretty.
It’s basically the same as with humans (i.e. red eyes, rashes, face rubbing,
skin problems, sneezing, and so on).
Only difference is... your dog can’t tell you how he’s feeling.
And if your dog has allergies (or you suspect your dog has allergies), you
should definitely take him to your vet.
But... in addition to getting your dog treated by a regular vet, there are a
couple other things you can try.
I’m not saying these things will always work 100% of the time.
But they have worked to blunt (sometimes even eliminate) allergies in
certain dogs.
And they may work on your dog, too.
Anyway, the first option is switching to a raw diet.
Many dog owners swear by raw foods and say it’s helped them control
(even eliminate!) their dog’s allergies.
And it may be worth testing.
Just be sure you ask your vet before changing dog foods.
Another option for dealing with your dog’s allergies is taking her to a
reputable holistic veterinarian.
Why?
Because most of the conventional allergy treatments involve chemicals that
may not be good for your dog.
Like steroids, for example.
They may help alleviate symptoms, but steroids have also been shown to
have nasty (and sometimes permanent) side effects.
And a good holistic vet can show you options your conventional vet
probably has never tried (or even heard of, in some cases).
Options that are both free of side effects... and that solve the problem
(instead of covering the symptoms).
Just make sure you pick a good holistic vet.
Like any vet, there are good ones and not-so-good ones.
It never hurts to ask for references of other satisfied customers.
Whatever you decide, just know there are other options.
And who knows?
By trying these unconventional tactics, you may just find your dog “allergyfree.”
Chapter 39
Why Your Kitchen Sink Is the Biggest Health
Hazard Your Dog Faces
One of the worst (and easiest to fix) dog health problems has to do with
water. Not just giving her enough water. But also giving her the right kind
of water.
Here’s why:
First of all, dogs are 80% water.
Just like us humans, they need water to survive and for healthy organs.
They need it to ensure their internal systems work correctly and efficiently.
A lack of enough water can cause anything from kidney problems to
urinary tract infections to a host of other health problems that can be painful
for your dog and expensive for you to treat.
Now, I know that is pretty much common knowledge.
But what is not common knowledge (but should be) is that giving your dog
the right amount of water isn’t enough.
Again, you also have to give her the right kind of water.
In fact, one of the most interesting things I ever heard about dog health was
from this guy who gives his dogs filtered “reverse osmosis” drinking water.
He told me that after a few weeks of drinking the reverse osmosis water, his
dogs actually refused to drink tap water.
When I asked him why, he told me about how all water is not the same.
First of all, most tap water contains parasites, bacteria, metals and even rat
feces (it’s true, if you don’t believe me check your water pipes).
All of which can be extremely harmful to people and dogs.
And so, before it reaches your faucet, tap water is run through a treatment
plant. These treatment plants do a good job of removing much of the junk in
the water. But they are far from perfect.
Which is why, to add an extra layer of protection, and to make sure all the
bacteria is killed before making it to your faucet, the tap water is treated
with chemicals like chlorine and fluoride.
And while it’s true these chemicals do more good than harm in tap water
(they are a lot better than drinking parasites and deadly bacteria), studies
have shown they can cause cancer and other health problems in both people
and animals over time.
Health problems that can not only cause your dog a lot of problems in the
future, but can also significantly shorten his life span.
And that’s a tragedy.
Not only because in this day and age filtered water is quite easy to come by,
but also because it is actually very cheap. Usually a lot cheaper than most
people realize.
In fact, for less than $100 you can get a good water machine at Target or
Wal-Mart. And at most grocery stores you can get a full five gallons of
“reverse osmosis” water (which is, from what I can tell, the best kind) for
less than $2.00 – or about $4.00 for ten gallons!
And all you have to do is fill your dog’s water bowl (and your own drinking
glass) with that water instead of running it under the tap.
Yes, it costs a little money for the water machine (less than $100). And yes,
you will have to get your water filled at the grocery store every week or so.
But good reverse osmosis drinking water is extremely cheap and can make
a huge difference in your dog’s health.
Chapter 40
How to Stop a Life Threatening Disease in Your
Dog... Before It Even Surfaces
This may sound like hype, but I honestly believe this one chapter could be
the single most important thing you ever read when it comes to your dog’s
health.
Not because it reveals any big health “secrets” or has anything dramatic in
it.
But because it will show you an extremely simple way to cut many
common (and deadly) health problems off at the pass before they get
serious and snowball into anything life threatening.
Here’s what I mean:
Last summer my dad’s dog, O’Reilly, started drinking a lot of water almost
out of the blue.
Of course, since O’Reilly always drank a lot of water... and since my dad
lives in one of the hottest cities in America (where 115 degree days in the
summer is the rule, not the exception), there didn’t seem to be much of an
emergency.
And then, a few weeks later, they took O’Reilly to the vet to get a routine
check-up.
At the end of the visit they mentioned to the vet how O’Reilly was drinking
a lot of water.
The vet casually said, “I don’t think this is anything to worry about. But if
you want, you can get his blood tested to check for diabetes or kidney
problems. But it’s not cheap and will cost some money.”
Long story short:
Since the vet didn’t sound too concerned, and since it was hot out and
O’Reilly always drank a lot of water anyway, the whole incident was
dropped and pretty much forgotten.
Until a few weeks ago, when, just seven months later, O’Reilly passed away
at the early age of five.
What happened?
Turns out he had chronic kidney failure.
Now, there probably isn’t much that could have been done even if they had
caught it seven months ago with the blood test.
O’Reilly’s condition had built up over time – maybe even several years –
and it may have been too late anyway.
But then again, maybe it wouldn’t have.
And maybe O’Reilly would still be alive today.
We’ll never know.
But one thing is for sure:
If my dad knew then what he knows now, he would have insisted on getting
that blood test. Even if the vet said it’d be a waste of time. And even if it
had cost ten times as much money.
And that’s the point I want to make here.
Get your dog’s blood checked every year – year in and year out.
A routine blood test every year could literally save your dog’s life.
You can detect – and hopefully prevent – things like viral infections,
parasites, kidney problems, diabetes, heartworms, lyme disease, liver
disease, anemia, cancer... and many other abnormalities that could turn into
serious problems later on.
Yes, it’s not always cheap.
It could run anywhere from $100 or more.
But ask my dad and he’ll tell you the money is a pittance compared to both
the future vet bills that result from a health problem in its advanced stages
and also the life of your dog.
In fact, ask anyone who has lost a dog to a disease that could possibly have
been detected and prevented with a simple blood test and they’ll agree the
$100 is a bargain.
Not only can a yearly blood test prevent you from having to pay thousands
of dollars in vet bills from a serious problem – but it can also spare you the
agonizing pain of losing your dog.
Frankly, even if your dog doesn’t have any symptoms or your vet doesn’t
seem concerned your dog’s symptoms are anything to worry about – you
should still get that blood test.
Why?
Because, as human doctors and health professionals say, “an ounce of
prevention is worth a pound of cure.”
And it’s no different when it comes to your dog.
Chapter 41
How to Get Your Dog to Enjoy Going to the Vet!
Tell me if this sounds familiar:
You have a dog who loves going for rides and seeing other people and dogs
and animals. A dog who practically leaps through the window of your car
before you get done saying, “wanna go for a ride?”
But, for some reason, when it comes time to go to the vet... your dog does a
complete “180.”
Instead of smiling and wagging his tail and all but jumping through the
screen to get to the car... he is quiet and reserved – ears down, sad look in
his eyes and stubbornly resisting you even putting his leash on him.
Sound familiar?
Well, if so, then this chapter is going to change that.
Instead of dreading going to the vet... your dog will now behave and,
possibly, even look forward to it.
All you have to do is follow these three simple steps and your dog should
be good to go when it’s “vet time.”
1. Be Excited.
Like they say... “fake it ‘till you make it.”
You may dread taking your dog to the vet almost as much as he dreads it
himself.
And if you let him sense that it in you, then you can be all but guaranteed
your dog will not want to go and will resist.
Remember, in a vet’s office, your dog is going to sense the fear and anxiety
of the the other dogs and animals.
Many of them will be scared because of all the other animals or because
they sense they are going to be handled and probed and stuck with sharp
needles (hey, let’s face it, dogs know more than we give ‘em credit for!)
Your attitude must be positive and cheerful. Your dog (emotionally
speaking) will mirror you.
If you act down, scared or nervous so will he!
So act happy and playful. Pretend you’re taking him for a country ride or
anywhere else you have fun together.
This alone will go a long way to making your dog more at ease.
2. Examine Your Dog Yourself.
No, you’re not going to diagnose, treat or try to cure anything.
But in the days leading up to the vet visit (and any other day you can, for
that matter) you definitely should lightly massage his toes, side, back, head,
face, ears, gums, teeth, etc.
Why?
Two reasons.
First of all, dogs are primarily pack animals. Your dog needs your attention
and love. Your touch and even your voice is soothing to him. It helps
alleviate his anxiety.
Second of all, when he’s used to you doing this, it won’t be a big deal when
the vet does the same thing during a routine exam.
It’s kind of like if you start giving your dog regular baths when he’s young.
When he’s older he’s used to it and it’s no big deal.
And it’s the same with examining him regularly.
3. Let Him Meet The Vet.
This may sound drastic, but it will do wonders for your dog.
If you really want to make it comfortable for your dog, take him to visit the
vet on a day when you’re out playing and having fun. And not on a day he
normally goes.
That way, the vet is just another pal.
Not a stranger who is going to cause him any discomfort.
And that’s it.
Doing these three things should make it a lot easier for your dog to see the
vet and far less stressful on you getting him there.
Chapter 42
How to Eliminate Fleas With an Inexpensive
(Non-Toxic) Ingredient Found At Your Local
Grocery Store
A few summers ago, an acquaintance of mine and I went on a vacation to
Washington state where her dad lives.
And on this trip we both learned one of the most interesting (and practical)
dog tips we’d ever heard.
You see, her dad loves hanging out at the beach. And so, when we got there,
that’s exactly what we did.
We went to a town called Anacortes and found a slice of beach that wasn’t
too crowded and just sat there and watched the waves roll in.
Before long, a family with a dog came down to the beach and started
playing with their dog in the water.
While enjoying the view and watching the fun they were having, her dad
mentioned something about how taking a dip in the salt water was a great
way to get rid of fleas.
“Really?” I asked. This was news to me.
“Oh yeah. Fleas hate salt water and salt in general. It kills them and dries up
their eggs. If you want to get rid of fleas on your dog run him down to the
beach and let him play in the water. He won’t have so much as one live flea
or flea egg in his fur or on his body when he comes back.”
Interesting, isn’t it?
Especially when you look at the millions of dollars spent each year on flea
control medicines and gimmicks.
But, you may be thinking, what if you don’t live near a body of salt water?
And what do you do if your entire home is infested with fleas?
How does this help you?
The answer is simple.
Just because you don’t have an ocean near you doesn’t mean you can’t use
salt to rid your dog, your house and even you of fleas (if they’ve jumped on
you – which can and does happen).
For starters, you can give your dog a salt water bath right in your own tub.
The jury is still out on this, but I have heard sea salt works much better than
iodized salt.
But either one should work fine.
Reason why is because the salt will dry the fleas out and destroy the eggs –
which is the most important thing. You can kill all the fleas you want, but if
you don’t nab their eggs (the average flea can lay up to 50 eggs!) the
problem will persist no matter what you do.
And if your entire home is infested with fleas and flea eggs, you can still
use salt.
Simply salt down all your carpets and rugs.
Make sure you get the salt into all the fibers and let it sit for a few hours
and then vacuum. This will dry those fleas and their eggs out. You can also
put salt in the vacuum bag to make sure all the fleas you vacuum up are
killed.
Also, make sure you get the salt down where it’s dark – especially in
between the floor boards if you have wood floors. Fleas love dark, wellshaded areas.
Then repeat this step every week for about a month or so just to make sure
you got all the eggs and to prevent more from coming back.
Now, in the off chance salt does not work there is at least one other remedy
at most pet stores you can try called “Advantage” flea control.
Just be careful as there are chemicals in it.
However, from what I understand, it’s a rare dog who gets especially
bothered by it. If you’re not sure, ask your vet. And if you are concerned
about your carpets getting ruined by salt or any other chemical flea
remover, talk to the manufacturers of your carpet just to be safe.
And that’s all there is to it.
Getting rid of fleas is extremely important as they can cause anything from
anemia (in younger dogs) to triggering allergies to inflaming infections.
But if you use the simple steps in this chapter, it shouldn’t take more than a
few hours to get rid of them in one swoop.
Chapter 43
A Common Mistake New Dog Owners Make That
Almost Guarantees Their Dogs Never Learn To
Listen or Obey
When I was growing up I used to live by a big park – which was a great
place to play baseball, hang out or take dogs for walks.
One day I saw a guy there trying to train his young yellow lab. He was
having a heck of a time at it, too. It seemed the guy was constantly
repeating the same commands over and over and over... with little or no
effect.
And the odd thing was, we would see this guy at the park at least two or
three times a week, and each time it seemed he was no closer to getting his
dog to listen or obey.
Now, at the time I never gave it much thought. This was before I fell in love
with dogs or even had a dog.
And yet, over the years, I saw the same thing happen to people I knew and
talked with who did own dogs.
For some reason, some people I knew just couldn’t get their dogs to learn
even the most basic of commands.
Now, several years later, I know why.
And it has nothing to do with these people being ignorant or because their
dogs were dumb, stubborn, or didn’t go to a good obedience class.
No.
It’s actually much simpler than that.
You see, the reason so many people have this problem is because of where
they choose to train their dogs... and not how they train them.
Here’s what I mean:
One of the big problems with training a dog in the beginning is getting her
to focus on you and the situation... and not on everything else going on
around her.
For example:
Let’s say you just got your new dog. You’re ready to start training her to do
simple commands and you’ve read all the best books and talked to all the
best trainers.
And yet, for some reason, your new dog is either not taking to the training
at all... or her progress is really slow.
You know what?
Nine times out of ten, the problem is probably that there are simply too
many distractions going on.
Such as other dogs being walked, people jogging down the street, squirrels
jolting across your path, and so on and so forth.
This is why many professional dog trainers will insist on you training your
new dog in your own home or backyard – where there is likely to be less
distractions.
That way your new dog can concentrate on what you are saying without
having her attention yanked away by a bunch of random commotion around
you.
That’s not to say you can’t take your new dog to the park or for a walk or
anything like that.
All I’m saying is, at first, when you are trying to teach her the basics, make
sure you are alone with no distractions.
Then, after she’s got the basic commands down, start taking her around
other people, dogs and animals.
In fact, that’s the next logical step anyway.
Once you can train her to behave and obey alone, you will have a much
easier time training her to be obedient when there are distractions.
On the other hand, if you don’t do this... if you instead train your new dog
at the dog park or in places where there is a lot of traffic, noises, smells and
animals... you’ll be fighting an uphill battle and training your dog will be
more of a headache than a joy.
This may seem simple (and it is).
But it can make your life a whole lot easier when it comes to training your
dogs.
Chapter 44
How to Use an Ordinary Pencil to Train Your Dog
New Commands in a Fraction of The Time It
Normally Takes
How would you like to cut the time it takes to train your dog a new
command or trick in half?
And... how would you like to do it without going to any dog obedience
classes, reading an endless amount of books or watching hours of dog
training videos?
Then I’ve got some good news for you.
Because, you see, there is a way to do this.
And all it costs is a 15-cent pencil and a pad of paper.
You see, the key to training your dog in a fast and easy way is to simply get
“inside” his head.
By that I mean, to learn to think like him. To know what he’s going to do
before he even does. And then be able to leverage this information into
when you want to train him a new command.
How do you do that?
You simply observe him and take notes.
No joke.
This is one of the most practical and useful things you can do if you want to
have a dog that is totally obedient and learns new commands fast.
Here’s why:
As you know, each dog in the world is totally different.
Just like human beings, they each have their own personalities, mannerisms,
and peculiarities that set them completely apart from each and every other
dog in the world.
And this isn’t just a mental thing either. Even physically no two dogs are
alike (instead of having different finger prints, for example, each dog has a
unique nose print).
And if you can get to “know” your dog better than he knows himself... you
will accelerate the speed at which you train him and bond with him.
Think of it almost like you’re an actor.
If you are going to act in a play, you have to temporarily “become” the
character you are playing.
And if you treat the training of your dog in this same manner – where you
know him better than you know your favorite TV character – you will be
able to get in his mind and see what all his strong points are as well as the
things he needs work on.
To do this, simply observe him and take notes.
Let him outside in the back yard and just let him do whatever he wants. Do
not interfere with anything he does, and do not call any attention to
yourself. Be as “invisible” as you can.
Then, take note of everything he does.
For example:
Does he bark at other animals? If so, is it a mean bark... or a friendly tailwagging bark? Does he react to different animals in different ways (i.e.
does he bark at cats but ignore squirrels)?
What does he do to amuse himself when you aren’t looking? Does he sniff
around looking for something to do or does he lay down and relax?
Is he easily distracted? Or does he ignore everything around him when he’s
fixated on something?
What about when you try to teach him something new? Does he catch on
fast to new commands? Or does it take ten sessions for him to learn
anything new? Does he look bored while doing certain commands? Or is he
excited whenever you are trying to teach him something?
How about the way he moves?
Does he run towards things or slowly walk, leisurely at his own pace?
How does he react when a human goes by? Does he stop or ignore him?
When you leave him alone... does he seek you out? Or does he look for
something to play with? Or does he just lay there and fall asleep?
And so on and so forth.
The point here is to take notes of everything and anything you can about
your dog’s mannerisms and ways. Write down anything that comes to your
mind as you observe him.
Do this over and over and over and you’ll start to see patterns emerge.
You’ll understand things like if he’s naturally stubborn or obedient...
curious or ambivalent... aggressive or submissive.
If he loves other animals or dislikes other animals... if he’s bored or
challenged by everything... if he’s quick to catch on to new things or if he’s
a little slow to catch on to new things... etc.
Anyway, there are literally thousands of things you can learn about your
dog by doing this exercise a few times each month. And the more you know
about him, the easier and faster it will be to train him.
Best part: It’s a simple exercise that only takes maybe five or ten minutes a
pop. And, as I mentioned before, it costs you almost nothing except a little
time.
Chapter 45
Why Most People Sabotage Their Dog’s Learning
Progress and Never Even Realize It
Let me tell you about the Parker family (not their real name).
Once upon a time the Parker family – a mom, dad and three kids – decided
to buy a dog and named him Buck.
Buck was a mixed breed dog who was smart, loving and a lot of fun to be
around.
In fact, the Parker family felt lucky to have Buck and the entire family was
better off with him.
However, there was one problem with Buck that never seemed to get
solved.
He rarely obeyed anyone’s command.
Never really did as he was told.
And just didn’t seem to want to listen.
Don’t get me wrong. Buck was not a bad dog. He wasn’t mean and was
never a danger to anyone.
He was just disobedient.
When people came over he’d jump on them even though he was told not to.
He would hop up on furniture even though he was told not to. He would
pull and yank on the leash when taken for walks even though he was told
not to. And so on and so forth.
Then one day the Parkers asked a dog trainer friend of the family what they
should do.
They loved Buck, but were concerned that he never listened. Never did
what he was told. And almost seemed oblivious to the fact that the Parker
family was even giving him commands.
Luckily, it didn’t take long for the dog trainer friend to discover the
problem.
And it only took him about five minutes to explain it and show the Parker
family how to fix it.
“The problem,” said the trainer, “is that there is no one leader of the pack
here.”
“What do you mean?” asked the Parkers.
“Well, after just being here in your home for the past few hours, it’s obvious
your dog thinks you are his ‘pack’ and that he’s the leader. You see, dogs
are essentially pack animals. And each pack needs a leader. The problem
here, from what you’ve described, is there is no one ‘leader.’”
“That crazy,” said the Parkers. Of course they were leaders. They always
made sure Buck knew who was in charge.
“Is it?” asked their dog trainer friend. “I walked in the house and the first
thing that happened was Buck jumped on me. Within two seconds there
were four different commands from each of you telling him to get down –
and none of you doing it the same way.”
“So?”
“Well, the problem here is there should only be one of you teaching and
correcting your dog. And, even more important than that, everyone else
must follow that person’s lead. The dog must see that one person is in
charge – not all four of you. Otherwise, he figures you are all part of his
pack and he needs to lead you.”
And so, after much discussion, the Parkers decided Mr. Parker would be the
sole “master” of Buck and would be the one to teach him commands and
correct him when he was wrong. Everyone else would then follow his lead
and reinforce those commands at other times.
From there on out the Parker’s (and Buck) lived happily ever after.
Okay, now I changed the name of the family and dog.
But the point still holds:
There can only be one “leader” of the pack in any home with a dog.
Your dog needs leadership.
It’s a primal instinct you cannot breed out of a dog’s line or train out of him.
And if you or someone in your home doesn’t provide the leadership – and
provide it alone, as the sole leader of the pack – then your dog will assume
the mantle of leadership to restore the balance of power.
The best and easiest way to do this is to do what the Parkers did – simply
designate one person, and one person alone, as the one in charge of training
and correcting the dog.
Do this and your dog will know he is not the leader.
Instead, he will see himself as a faithful and obedient member of the pack
and will act accordingly.
Chapter 46
Why Yelling At Your Dog When He Misbehaves Is
a Big Fat Waste of Time
Have you ever known someone who adopted a puppy... then whenever the
puppy made an accident on the floor or did something he wasn’t supposed
to... would get angry and start yelling and making a big scene?
I know I have.
And let me say, yelling and screaming at a puppy (or any dog, for that
matter) is as futile as stopping the sun from coming up.
Why?
Simply because dogs have notoriously short term memories.
And, in many cases, by the time you’ve started throwing a fit or tried to
correct the dog for doing something wrong, he’s already forgotten he did it.
Plus, to make it worse, if your dog has forgotten he did whatever it is you’re
yelling at him about... then there’s a very good chance he will think you are
mad at him for doing whatever it is he’s doing at that moment – whether
good or bad.
For example:
Let’s say you just got your new puppy and you are trying to teach him not
to chew on the rug.
Things seem to be progressing well and it even gets to the point where you
think you can leave him alone for a few hours at a time.
And so, one day you go and run some errands and come back to find the
puppy has not only chewed on the rug... but also made a mess on the carpet,
tore into the roll of toilet paper in the bathroom and even managed to sneak
in some time to gnaw on your best, most expensive, pair of shoes.
You see all this “puppy carnage” around you and your puppy is now
chewing on the chew toy you gave him that he should have been chewing
on to begin with.
So, dropping everything in your hands and seeing all the damage, you get
mad.
Real mad.
Mad at the puppy for making all these messes and mad at yourself for
trusting him alone when you shouldn’t have.
And then, without even thinking, you do what most people do, and start
yelling at him. Telling him “No!” and basically scaring the daylights out of
your puppy.
When you’re done, you think he’s got the picture. You think he’ll not make
a mess again without thinking twice after that stern talking to.
But you know what?
If this was the case, you would think wrong.
Because the reality is, your puppy, by that time, will have literally forgotten
about the messes he made. He only knows what he’s doing right now. In
this case he is chewing on the very toy he is supposed to be chewing on.
Which means, he thinks you are yelling at him for chewing on his own
chew toy!
Does this sound almost silly to you?
It’s not.
In fact, this is quite common.
And is the one reason why, no matter what your dog does, you must never
correct your dog for something he did before.
It’s futile.
You are simply wasting your time and confusing your dog.
The only time to correct a dog is when he’s “in the act” of doing whatever it
is he’s not supposed to be doing.
I know this is not always easy to do.
But try to think about it from your dog’s perspective.
He has a terribly short term memory. If he doesn’t know why he’s being
corrected then you’ve gained nothing. You’ve changed nothing. You’ve
prevented nothing from happening again.
In fact, if he is doing something good at the time you are doing the
correcting, then you will literally reverse much of the forward progress
you’ve already gained in training him.
Always remember: If you don’t catch him the act, then nothing you say or
do will help prevent him from doing it again.
Chapter 47
Why Some Dogs Stubbornly “Do Their Business”
in the House – Even When Housebroken
It’s frustrating, but it happens.
Sometimes, even though your dog is well trained and completely
housebroken, he still “does his business” on the floor or on a piece of
furniture.
Even though he’s been corrected for this before, and even though he knows
full well he’s supposed to go outside.
Question is, why?
Why does this happen?
It’s almost always one of two reasons:
1. They have an instinct to go in the same spots.
In other words, they are simply marking their territory.
If you see them doing it in the same spot over and over this is usually the
case.
Luckily, this is almost always fixed by neutering or spaying your dog.
This won’t fully suppress the instinct.
But it will dampen it quite a bit – usually enough to end it completely.
2. They are trying to dominate you.
Or someone else in the house.
For example, does your dog lift his leg around where you sit to watch TV
each day?
Or maybe he does it around your child’s bed?
If so, he may be trying to prove his dominance.
To let you, and everyone else in the house, know who is “the boss.”
If that is the case, you need to take the steps to start making him realize
you’re the leader of the pack and it will stop.
For more information on asserting your dominance, read the chapters in this
book that cover the topic and maybe even talk to a professional dog trainer.
They will be able to go into much more detail on exactly what to do if your
dog is stubbornly resisting your commands and thinks he’s the leader of the
household.
Either way – whether they are really “accidents” or your dog trying to prove
he’s the boss – it’s important to make it hard for your dog to return to the
“scene of the crime.”
And you do that by getting rid of all traces of the accident.
Especially the smell – so he can’t find the same place again.
What’s the best way to do this?
There are commercial cleaners out there promising to eliminate odors.
Some of them are really good. Others are nothing to write home about.
When in doubt, plain old vinegar and baking soda will do a great job.
If you have a hard floor, simply wet mop the area with a water/vinegar
mixture.
For rugs and carpets, lace the spot with baking soda and let sit for several
hours (the longer the better) – then vacuum.
That should totally remove any hint of odor and prevent your dog from
finding the same spot each time.
In the meantime, learn “why” your dog is going in the house and take the
necessary actions so he stops – whether it’s neuter/spaying or professional
dog training.
Otherwise, it won’t matter how well you cover up his accidents.
Chapter 48
How to Prevent Your Dog From Being Lonely,
Scared Or Nervous When Locked In His Crate
For Several Hours At A Time
A few years ago I visited my dad and stepmother at their home to go out to
dinner.
Before we left they put their dog O’Reilly in his crate – as he was still
young and would get into things if left unsupervised.
We were on our way out the door when Corrine, my stepmother, stopped
and rushed back into the living room where O’Reilly’s crate was.
“Did you forget something?” I asked.
“Yes, I forgot to turn on the television. We like to leave Animal Planet on
for O’Reilly when we’re away.”
I thought that was really interesting.
And recently, I learned that not only is leaving the television on for your
dog when you’re away interesting, but it’s actually very smart, too.
Because dogs, like you and me, hate to be alone.
They get lonely just like anyone else does. Only difference is, when they
are locked in a crate, that loneliness is intensified even more.
I mean, think about it from your dog’s perspective for a second.
What if you were locked in a small, enclosed area for several hours at a
time?
How would you feel?
Even if you had your favorite toy and something to drink, that would get
old real fast, wouldn’t it?
Especially if you didn’t know how to tell time and if you had no real idea if
your master was ever going to come home again or not.
So the question of the hour is, what can you do to make your dog more
comfortable if he is locked in his crate for several hours?
Well, for one thing, you can do what Corrine does and leave the television
on.
It doesn’t really matter what channel you leave on (although I think Animal
Planet is a great option). Because the idea is to make sure a human voice is
constantly heard. A human voice will soothe your dog and he won’t feel so
alone.
Don’t like leaving the television on due to fires and other electrical hazards
that could possibly happen?
Then you can also try talk radio.
Again, hearing a human voice will do wonders for your dog’s sense of
security and loneliness when you’re not there.
You can also turn on some classical music as discussed in chapter 4 of this
book.
That will also help dampen his fears, soothe his anxieties and keep him
much more content.
And finally, if nothing else, you can get one of those “kong” toys (you can
get them anywhere for under $10) and smear peanut butter inside it.
What will this do?
Well, if you’ve never seen a kong toy, they are thick rubber toys with a
hollow inside and a hole in the bottom. (Just type in “dog kong toys” in a
search engine and you’ll see what they are).
And by putting a treat or something tasty in the middle (like peanut butter),
your dog will smell and get a little taste of what’s inside... and try like crazy
to get at it.
Many times for hours on end!
And don’t worry.
These kong toys are extremely tough.
In fact, Garry (the farting bull terrier – and who had exceptionally strong
jaws) would chew through everything and anything – including Nylabones,
Gumabones and a host of other so-called “indestructible” toys.
But he never even made a dent in the kong toy.
He’d go at it for hours and it was as smooth and undamaged as it was
before it was given to him.
Bottom line:
If you want to keep your dog happy and content while you’re gone all day,
try smearing peanut butter inside a kong toy.
It’ll keep her occupied and engaged and help get rid of any separation
anxiety she may normally get when you’re gone.
In fact, don’t be surprised if you come home several hours later and see her
still going at it!
Whatever the case, just remember, dogs are not all that different from
humans.
They get sad, happy, scared and excited just like anyone else.
So before leaving your dog alone in his crate for extended periods of time,
please consider what you’ve read here.
Your dog will thank you for it!
Chapter 49
How to Trim Your Dog’s Nails Without Hassle,
Squirming or Pain
One of the hardest parts of grooming a dog is – hands down – trimming the
nails.
And while you can always have a groomer do it, it’s still a good idea to at
least know how to do it yourself in case money gets tight or something
comes up and you can’t find anyone else you trust to do the job.
Overgrown nails can cause health problems like pain and even, in some
cases, deformity.
And if you absolutely must do it yourself, or don’t trust anyone else to do it,
then the following should help.
1. Start nail trimming when your dog is still a puppy.
Why?
Because, like with bathing, teeth brushing and grooming – if you get your
dog “used” to it when she’s still young, you’ll have a lot less squirming and
nervousness.
She may not “like” it.
But she’ll at least be able to tolerate it.
And again, like when brushing your dog, let her sniff the clippers and get to
“know” them. Talk to her and say, “see, look, it’s okay, they’re not
dangerous...” in a calm, soothing voice.
That way she should be more comfortable around them.
2. Look for the “quick.”
What’s the “quick”?
The quick is basically flesh inside your dog’s nails.
It’s easy to see if your dog has light skin, but impossible to see if your dog
has dark skin.
It’s also extremely sensitive and contains both nerves and blood.
As you can imagine, if you cut into the quick it will bleed and cause your
dog quite a bit of pain.
Plus, you could also give your dog a horrible “complex” about the
experience where the mere sight of nail clippers sends shock waves of fear
through him.
The best way to make sure you don’t cut the quick is to just cut small little
segments at a time.
3. Keep disinfectant handy.
You’ve heard the old adage, “hope for the best, prepare for the worst”?
Well, this is especially important when clipping your dog’s nails.
Chances are, if you’re careful, you’ll never have to worry about cutting the
quick or causing your dog any pain.
But accidents do happen.
And if you should happen to clip the quick, you need to be prepared for a
lot of blood and to disinfect the wound immediately.
One popular option is styptic powder.
You can also dip the wound in flower or cornstarch. I have also heard that
you can use black pepper (apparently it coagulates the blood).
If you’re not sure, call your vet and ask what to do beforehand. That way
you’ll be ready.
4. Turn on some classical music.
Remember, it’s been proven to relax dogs. And when it comes to trimming
nails that’s exactly what you will need – a relaxed dog.
One final thing.
If you are not comfortable trimming your dog’s nails, for any reason, then
you’re much better off having a professional groomer do it or, at the very
least, having a groomer show you how to do it.
The important thing is that you have it done regularly as long nails can
cause health problems. However, if your dog does a lot of walking on hard
surfaces (like pavement) then there’s a good chance her nails will not need
trimming often, or even at all.
But keep an eye on them just in case no matter what.
Chapter 50
How to Prevent Kidney Disease From Killing
Your Dog
I am dedicating this last chapter to my dad’s late dog, O’Reilly.
As you read in chapter 40, O’Reilly recently died (at the early age of 5) of
kidney failure.
And since kidney disease now ranks amongst the second or third leading
cause of death in dogs, anyone with a dog really should know how it works.
That way you can treat it and maybe keep your dog alive longer. Or, even
better, prevent it from happening at all.
What is kidney disease and how does it work?
Without getting too technical, the kidneys act as “filters” for the poisons
and wastes in your dog’s body.
They detect, filter and eliminate all the toxins, wastes, poisons, etc that pass
through your dog.
The kidneys actually do a lot of other things, too (like regulate blood
pressure and body fluids, for example).
Which means, if something compromises your dog’s kidneys and they shut
down... all that poison stays in your dog’s body instead of being flushed out.
At that point, it doesn’t take long for sickness and then death to occur.
But you want to know what the worst part is?
If your dog has chronic (the deadliest kind) kidney disease many times the
symptoms won’t even show until it’s too late.
In fact, in O’Reilly’s case, other than the excessive drinking, his symptoms
didn’t show up until about five days before he passed away – when his
kidneys were down to 25% capacity!
So it’s important to not only detect kidney problems as early as possible...
but try to do everything in your power to prevent them from happening at
all.
Let’s start with the symptoms.
With O’Reilly, he was drinking a lot of water and was losing weight rapidly.
Other symptoms can range from bad breath and lethargy... to vomiting and
depression... to clumsiness when walking and even going an entire day
without eating.
If your dog has any of these symptoms call your vet immediately. Don’t put
it off or wait to see if they get any worse.
True, it may not be anything to worry about. But it’s always better to be
safe than sorry.
Now, what about preventing kidney failure from happening in the first
place?
Again, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. So the best thing
you can do is try to prevent problems from happening at all.
Here’s how:
1. Avoid sudden and drastic injuries.
In fact, any kind of trauma that causes a drop in blood pressure (i.e. hit by a
car) can cause kidney problems.
If your dog has any kind of major injury, get him checked for kidney
problems, too. Don’t assume your vet will do this. She may or may not. It
doesn’t hurt to ask.
2. Go easy on the antibiotics.
There are certain antibiotics that can cause kidney damage when used for
prolonged periods.
Ask your vet about this if your dog is on any now. And get a second (and
even third) opinion if you want to be absolutely sure.
3. Never let your dog lick sidewalks, streets or driveways – ever.
You basically should watch your dog like a hawk when he’s on the street or
in the driveway. Anti-freeze (which has a sweet taste) is a huge cause of
kidney problems.
4. Watch out for rats.
If you have rat poison in your home (or anywhere your dog is going to be)
watch for that, too. Also keep your dog away from grapes and raisins. They
can also cause kidney damage.
5. And last, but not least – get your dog’s blood tested regularly.
This is probably the single most important thing you can do to prevent
kidney failure.
Why?
Because not only can a blood test detect kidney problems... but it can also
detect infections and other diseases that cause kidney problems (like heart
disease, for example). And many times the only way to detect these
problems is with blood tests and vet visits.
Okay, that’s it for now.
I encourage you to read up on this in more detail when you get a chance.
Kidney problems can snatch your dog away from you in less than a week if
you don’t know how to prevent or treat it.
There’s a lot of great information about this disease on the Internet and in
any decent library.
If you’re interested in a more “in depth” look at how to prevent kidney
problems in your dog it will be well worth the time and effort to read up on
this important subject.
Acknowledgments
No book is written without help. Not even a short book like this. And I want
to thank those who made this all possible.
So without further ado, I would like to thank Garry, Frantzee, Beannie,
O’Reilly, Nigel, Murphy, Kasha, Jack and all the other dogs without who
this book would never have been written.
I’d also like to thank my parents for making sure dogs were in my life while
growing up, and all the other friends, dog trainers and vets whose research
made this book a thousand times better than it would have been otherwise.
And finally, thank you, dear reader. For taking a chance on this book and on
me. I sincerely hope you learned some ways to make your time with your
dog(s) happier and less stressful.
Ben